replace the rotor itself. The timing variator solenoid is just behind the oil filler cap. If the valve under that goes it is a big job but I fixed mine by putting some tappet cleaner into the oil. I cant think of a sensor connected to this though. I have some more info but it is in very large (over 100mb) .pdf files if you have a big connection. fixitagaintomorrow has a good thread here httpwww.fiatforum.commarea24011-photo-how-marea-20v-cam-belt-change.html
Originally Posted by Jamied also... the button on the right below the radio with the temp sensor symbol on - what is that for engine temp or oil temp and doe sanyone know where the sensor is and whenever i press it i get an error message followed by the dash dials dying... i remember someone saying that the dash is earthed to a temp sensor somewhere so want to check it out to see if i can sort the
thanks for the responses... Hi Buldog - I dont think its a belt as its not that sort of noise - def. seems suspension or possibly wheel brake related - its like a sharp squeak intermittent when going right (almost like the disc shield is rubbing on something but its not...) and it does give a little noise going over bumps now and again... and theres the light grinding that seems to be related... not
hi there mee too have a dirty MAF from the day one i got my jtd105. again i must thanks for those put up the DIY on how to clean up a MAF . it is from brovoa club. i did clean using carb clearner at the first time by just spraying it. put it back and it doent feel right yet. then took it out one more time and give a bit more time to soak it follow by cotton bud wiping. make sure nothing left inside
This can happen if you do a lot of short runs. The car is always on choke and the petrol washes down the cylinder walls and dilutes the oil. If its happening on long runs maybe the temp sensor has failed and the ECU is always over fuelling
You can see the return feed into the inlet piping before the inlet manifold you can also see that pressure is relieved off through the oil feed o.O And yes i think it is contributing to problems i have an issue where i have to clean my sensors weekly because they keep getting wet with something (Petrolly smelling Imo) Maybe your 1.8 is similar I need to get a filter for the pcv piping really i have one but it has a split end Shouldnt be too much though.
Hi and welcome to our forum I have to agree that you have a great car. Sorry to hear you are having problems though. Just a few questions sorry if they are too simple. What condition was the oil in Clean dirty or contaminated. When was the last oil change Quite a few members change the oil more frequently than the standard 12K some every 6-7K. On a new car I would normally give it a full flush out
Hi Dave Turned out the strainer was gooked up to death so was the sump what a complete bstard job to do. after doing all this the oil light now goes out when turning the engine over BUT it will not start and we havent a clue why theres petrol getting there and a good spark too (New Plugs) reset button under seat ok Im having a nightmare and to say Im now thoroughly pssed off is a vast understatement
Ok arent fiats fun. Fuel & spark there so check timing. Could you have disturbed timing sensor are injectors pulsing Sorry you are still having problems good luck tomorrow. My motor is back to the garage for an MOT retake really worried that im going to have to replace both rear calippers.
WELL WHAT A BLOODY MISSION THIS HAS TURNED OUT TO BE 1st we do a major job doing the sump off clean up thing then after replacing the cam position sensor wire (from fiat ) we attempted to start the engine... now the ignition barrel has collapsed internally so off to the breakers for a replacement I got the whole column rather than trying to split it all etc fitted it to the car this morning and then
Nope not in the JTD . oil sensors can be mounted anywhere along the main oil galleries in the block which is why i think its hidden at the back of the engine. Seriously there isnt much room behind the JTD engine to see anything. God help one if the alternator or starter goes..
Originally Posted by stylers Nope not in the JTD . oil sensors can be mounted anywhere along the main oil galleries in the block which is why i think its hidden at the back of the engine. Seriously there isnt much room behind the JTD engine to see anything. God help one if the alternator or starter goes.. Actually you can get to the starter pretty easy. Just get the plastic motor-cover off and unbolt
Originally Posted by dangel1971 Hi all firstly can i just say what a great site spent many a happy hour reading threads so now i thought i would have a go myself Got a sick marea 1.8 16v 115 ELX Following two years of trouble free ( yes trouble free) driving my marea broke a cambelt. Well when i say broke turns out whoever had done the head gasket change had left a head bolt washer floting around in
revieled that all the oil we had put in the other day had settled in the gearbox.......equals one knackered bottom end and the end of my lovehate relationship with the marea To this end I will be posting all the parts from the car in the classified section of this site headlights coils ecu abs unit and the like and scrapping the car after about 7days. So if u want anything from a weak green fiat
I received the same email as you polecat This my first reply to him.... Hi First of all you got to check the level of the oil fluid. While engine is runing & hot check the level of the fluid. As for marea the level of fluid must be higher than the marknotch by 1.5 inches eventhough the fiat manual says the fluid level is at the hot mark. So pls check the fluid level first. BAsed on my experience my
Originally Posted by superfestiva I took the car to the local fiat dealership and the next day they called me saying that the gearbox has to be repaired because the transmission oil has almost no pressure. Luckily they will fix it with no charge because I bought the car to them less than a month ago. They told me that was the reason the car hesitates gets very rough and sometimes does not want to change
replaced the map sensorairfilteroilfilterfuelfilter.Have disconnected the egr unit used injector cleaner frequentlydisconnected the ecu connectors and reconnected after using a good contact spray.Disconnected the battery overnight to reset the ecu .None of the above has helped the problem.This problem is also sporadic.I can drive for miles and not have problems then suddenly it starts again.The fiat
update on missing description 1. I already change MAF sensor (previosly failure) 2. Change air filter to K&N seem the old filter already 5 years without change (same as engine filter too) 3. Previously water sensor light on at board but now clear. 4. Already service using standard diesel enjin oil 1540 Im from Malaysia which diesel engine car is too little plus currently no fiat distributor.
Posted by yj09 update on missing description 1. I already change MAF sensor (previosly failure) 2. Change air filter to K&N seem the old filter already 5 years without change (same as engine filter too) 3. Previously water sensor light on at board but now clear. 4. Already service using standard diesel enjin oil 1540 Im from Malaysia which diesel engine car is too little plus currently no fiat
Originally Posted by tinytim 154000m JTD110 54 mpg zero oil consumption massive power especially since blocking off EGR valve and using a MAF sensor from a multijet Hello. Where can I get a multijet MAF sensor - I mean which multijet they never made a marea badged as such. Do you mean a Stilo Also are there any detrimental effects from blocking off the EGR valve Did you just use a blanking plate Please describe.. Cheers Lee.
V-power (I assume youre not from the UK then) is actually in some areas better than the Optimax that we get here for example in Australia technically its a much better fuel. Does the marea have a knock sensor If not the only benefit of using optimax over a standard fuel is the cleaning ability of the fuel (This is the opinion of the chief tester at the Stanlow oil Refinerys technology centre who I
There should be only AC oil and dye rest of the stuff should be airother gas contaminants (unless you got gaping hole in front that sucks sand in). Sucking in the vacuum clears the system. You need to remove the dash if you change the pressure valve evaporator with it. Image The fan on dash circulates air for the auto-aircon (cabin temperature sensor). Cooling fan relay.... just drive faster. marea
and springs from the arm. If you got abs sensors leave them and unplug the connectors under backseat. Undo the nut from the bolts. Try taking the bolt off. Incase it seems slightly stuck Beat the hell out of it. I used 15mm steel plate to hit from the nutside Plan B weld a nut or couple to it thread bolt to it use sliding hammer. If it wont come off use bigger hammer httpnever.mortals.dy.fimareamedium24092011194.jpg
Originally Posted by gnu Hello does anyone know if the engines on the 97 series mareas are suitable for conversion to LPG Or has anyone already done this I believe that as of 99 most of the marea Brava motors can be converted but I dont know about the earlier ones. Thanks in advance. Did you get the fuel consumption issued sorted on the 1.6 I have a 2000 weekender 1585cc petrol and I found that after
All the marea 1.6s are MPI the only real change is the manifold setup for the inlet the 97 mareas feature a pure (Aluminium) manifold with i think a different module slot layout (sensors seem to be prone to oil from PCV) as long as the manifold reaching some pretty toasty heat as the heat rises from the engine so plastic in term should derrive better power unless you wrap your metal. IMO a setup for
Originally Posted by cybertronix Hello all I had my engine washed at the local fiat garage when I discovered that I had been driving my car WITHOUT the oil gasket screw-on lid for about 2 weeks (I had been wondering why the car had been losing so much oil). Ive been absent minded lately to say the least.... Anyways the engine was COVERED with black oil and they washed it and fitted a new lid etc. Since
Error on milage display is aircon related. The hose on top of the reservoir is small so just seeing coolant going there should be enough its not really a part of the circulation process more like a return line for the pressure in the system. Does the rad get hot With diagnostics you can read the temperature from ecu the dash gauge and ecu have their own sensors (in same housing at thermostat) and dash gauges are known to show their own stuff from time to time due to poor contacts on BBM (sometimes sorted just by slamming your hand on top of dash). Rattle...change your oil and filter with cheap synthetic drive a week or two and throw good oil and new filter. Reading the dipstick is its own science on the 20v hot engine and wait 10 mins before checking on level ground and this times 4 (putting 5l in mine after full drain showed way over max on the dipstick when cold for short while but now when warm its under and hasnt moved in months if checked cold its still way over the max so kinda trap there fiat rates the sump and filter at 5l 5.5l for full system).
maybe its able to measure the airtemp from glowplugs...no idea). Only thing that could really hurt the engine on the underside are the fuel lines (kinked - not enough flowpressure) and the oilsump having a hole in it Tried MultiECUScan if you got the cables Or is this a standalone OBDII reader Even the free version of MultiECUScan is able to read from JTD engines. Cant say much about diesels in mareas
But have you heard a K&N they sound tacky but to be sure I took out my MAFF sensor and it hasnt gained any sticky (oil like) residue or any fine film of grime or dust still looks like the sensors new even after 8 years. But the next thing for me to check are the emmisions at my next MOT. (Very soon) Then again brand and style are a preference though. Rob.
little end bearings they are on the pistonsconrods - and unlikely to be a problem anyway. 2.. sounds an ok price - youll have a problem with MOTs if the cat is missing.. noise is nice though 3.. are plugsleadscoilpack in good condition . any bad misfiring could cause the light but best to get a diagnostic done to see whats wrong.. local garages with good diagnostic gear may be able to help if fiat
Hello I had this problem on my JTD130 for the first year and a bit that I owned it before I even knew what a MAF sensor was. I had a supposedly powerful diesel car that had no guts below 2000rpm and what little power it did have only happened between 2000 and about 2800rpm. I asked my friendly local mechanic when I was having the oil changed and he matter of factly said Have you tried unplugging the
Running little rich. Simple oilchange could do it Airfilter change You could check out the MAP sensor on the intake manifold prettymuch the only sensor on 1.6 to go wrong (with the coolant temperature sensor). The piping is so dirty so it cant read the pressure properly. But as yours still runs pretty good my guess is that it is working fine. For the leak is it a CAT on manifold or cat under the car.
Originally Posted by cptcuddles Cleaned all plugs and both o2 sensors which were a bit on the sotty side. Sat with the car connected to ecuscan to see if there were any glaring faults with sensors. Precat o2 voltage switches but is normally around 0.4V range postcat shows 0V and remains in open loop until rpm reaches 2000 then it switched to closed loop with voltage at 0V. After finishing looked at
Originally Posted by Hellcat Be interesting to see the effect of the oil filter on the MAF sensor. Bit worried that oily air from the filer could damage the MAF . A correctly oiled filter will not do any harm as it wouldnt loose any oil. I have fitted the twin cone filters I use on many engines that have MAFs with the different induction kits including one off induction setups. We never had a problem due to the filters loosing oil.
The engine will rev at about 850 50 when cold. It is possible that the ECU temp sensor is not working correctly so that the engine is running rich. Quickest way to test this is to pull a plug and see if it is wet or black or oily. If not then the best way to find the fault is to get a diagnostic it save loads of messing about and can save money in the long run. Oh and welcome to our forum Good luck.
Originally Posted by jug your problem sounds like the crankshaft position sensor. Was just about to say... cps.. If damaged by heatage they lose the ability to detect the teeth on the flywheel when hot. Its about a &16320 part and if you have a set of ramps and ribe bit set can be fixed reasonably easily by the budding mechanic. oil around the big air hose is normal. Not sure how it gets there but