The silicone sealant is Loctite 5910 its kindof like a tube of toothpaste so no guns or tools needed. Places like Halfords have it in store. After you clean the old silicone off do a few test fits of the sump before applying new silicone because it can be a little fiddly getting the sump over the oil pickup. Once you get a feel for the best way to put the sump back on without accidently wiping your
Cheers guys I have the sump sealant already I did read somewhere 2 bolts for the sump were by the gearbox and real fiddly or is that for the 1.4 Cheers Kieran varesecrazy liked this post
I removed the little pressed steel shield - that covers the bottom of the clutch bell-housing didnt have issues beyond that.. on a 1242 punto with 10mm HEX head bolts on the punto I disconnected exhaust at REAR of engine and flexed EX. down a little to remove sump ( actually I unbolted the oil pump strainer for more wriggle room) BUT was sold poor sealant did the job 3 times in the end.. its amazing how much oil dribbles down the bores gallery tubes after a leaky 30 second test run Charlie
Hi Danny eLearn doesnt say anything about a special tool either for petrol or diesel. If your car is a T-Jet then you seem to need a deep socket of the appropriate size as the plug has a hex head and is in a deep recess in the sump. The drawing for the M-Jet seems to show a hexagonal recess for an Allen Key. I dont know what size but apparently its an M14 thread. Seems you have to remove the under-engine protection which is 8 bolts Not fun without a lift.
The thread can come out with the sump plug if it has been excessivly over tightened... its a alloy sump(cheese) with a non-alloy sump boltplug(knife). Its just something i have come across many times and just wanted to pre-warn you. Chances are it will probably be fine.
on it the bolts will brake the head. With the tensioner still at maximum Carefully turn the engine over a couple of times by hand. You can recheck the timing again if you wish mine was still spot on. Put the tensioner in its final position. Fit the sprayer bar and tighten all the camshaft cap bolts to the correct torque. Done. __________________ Parts Wanted. I will consider any new original fiat
ought to put it in a new thread but I assume the front bumpers are easy enough to remove and change __________________ M ost E asterly P andas - Pandaing in East Anglia Stockest of mk2 Panda Parts PM for any parts requests 2 White Classic Panda Selectas A 1989 & 1991 Panda 750L Dualogic 2008 bravo MultiJet 2009 Panda Eleganza & LPGed Stilo   Quote   28-03-2008   26 Steven Go on the fiats
Originally Posted by Big Black Stilo i have a 150 sport and the sump guard and the bumper hit everything. I even scraped a wishbone (something metal anyway) the other night. mines standard no collapsed broken springs The bolts that hold the wishbones to the subframe stick out below anything else underneath. How do I know I went over a half-width speed bump and heard an awful metal grinding noise. Fearing I had just removed the sump I stopped immediately and when I didnt see oil running out laid down in front of the car. The heads of the wishbone bolts were super shiny. Luckily the sump had survived by about 15-20mm. bravo Mjet no suspension issues.
on many cars you have to loosen the gearbox off a bit to allow the sump to come off but you dont usually need to actually remove any of the gearbox bolts just loosen them off enough to seperate them a half inch or so. not sure what the situation is on the TD but i doubt youll need to do more than that. you may need to disconnect the nearside driveshaft from the gearbox to allow the gearbox to be moved
you have so much fun dont you not seen a bolt fitted before in a sump it should be a sumplug with a hex head. if its really that tight get the blowtourch on it and then try undoing it with a breaker bar they can be a bit tough to get started i guess your problem is that your moving the whole block around on the floor Ry Adrian bravo thanked for this post
Originally Posted by bulldog5046 i guess your problem is that your moving the whole block around on the floor Exactly its like you have done this before or something Everyone i know is on holiday so I cant get an extra set of hands or go out and buy a long long bar Ill take a picture of the bolt. My original sump plug was the same type and just as hellish to get off.
lay down some cardboard or somthing soft so as not to damage the block and then you can get some weight on it and have a good go at the bolt. best of luck mounting the gearbox if you are on your own
Originally Posted by johntra i have a leak on sump maybe two leaks on brava 1.6 elx 98..so i bought the sump gasket and i went to mine mechanic to change it but he said that he is in big business so he cant help me right now..i am asking is it hard to change it by yourself..i was under the car and i saw some 20 or more bolts..that is not looking so hard to do..but i saw that two bolts are little
As long as your sump plug or access panel bolts arent rusted tight then its a pretty straightforward job. The sump sump plug are uncovered and easy to access once the car in on axel stands. As for the oil filter there is an access panel on the undertray that is held shut with two bolts. Undo these bolts and lower the panel to gain access to the oil filter. Hope that helps
Originally Posted by rallycinq Fair enough. We took the opposite view that things will move so we welded brackets to the inner wings then bolted the frame up to them. The rear of the guard is bolted to the chassis rails. Cheers SPD where on the inner wing onnear engine mounts if so we really looked into this and could not get enough space Originally Posted by Adrian bravo Nice car craig. Oh theres
Originally Posted by Helz That was my point ie. was it the same sump across the whole range from 1.2 to 2.0 or did some share parts (as happens with exhausts) or was it specific to the 1.2. So I guess the answer to that is no the part I need is specific to the 1.2 theyre all very diferent so you need a 1.2 sump . you also need the sump gasket and some gasket paste. fitting is fairly easy in theory
I can confirm the oil filter is not on the front it is at the left rear if looking from the front and only accessible throught the offside wheel arch. I now have a new problem however. When i brought the car it had 9k miles on it and was serviced even though it didnt need it. The nob heads who serviced it at fiat Direct London must have done up the sump plug with an impact wrench. I attempted to undo
Im definatley turning it the right way its through the off-side wheel arch so running horizontal. Without the washer in place there would be zero tension on the bolt thus allowing it to turn (if the threads arent knackered of course). It would replicate the same scenario as if you had put the bolt in and left a 2mm gap. Dont want to attempt the drilling scenario as dont want to take swarf into the
To the sump or support bracket
no need to remove undertray the sump plug is at the back of the sump it isnt a nut its a hex head bolt. youll need a big allen key or a hex bit in a socket. its 11 or 12mm cant remember which.
funny one this cause mines an 8 mm hex bolt on the sump plug my car is a 97 hgt
Ive scuffed the bolts which hold the lower arms to the subframe on a speed hump. Thought Id removed the sump.. horrible noise. The speed bump was a fricking mountain though. Might go back at some time and measure it. Ill be needing a bullet proof suit and a squad to save the car from being hijacked though. Rough place - explains why I wasnt really wanting to slow down too much for the hump
Hi Sorry to hear of your problem I have a similar issue. I need help FAST If any1 can help id be so happy I have a 97 hgt i broke the sump and damaged the engine to cut a long story short. I had a 155 vis engine and decided to change the engine for this vis engine swapped everthing air intake sensors on the block absolutely everything cam belt plugs etc etc u name it i swopped it to revert it back
Sounds like the cross bar which is supposed to protect your sump from grounding. If it is you must have hit it hard to get is detatched . i suggest you get the car put on a lift and check it all out. Why not go to your local exhaust place and get them to check it out it really isnt worth trying to grub underneath on your own. with luck you will only need it bolting back in place.
lets not make my head swell im only on here so much because ive got nothing better to do. im hardly the bravo king what rpm does it settle at on a cold start and a warm start does it start easier once warm does it do the erratic idle thing for a couple of seconds on a warm start as its a 1.6 id guess its the idle speed control which is very common. try cleaning the passageway out where the actuator
Not trying to hijack or anything but I don&8217t see the point of starting a new thread for my question. P My 96 1.4 has oil forming up round the drain plug ive had a quick look and cant see where its coming from nothing bad just leaves a drip on the street every once in a while and annoys the hell out of me P Question is everyone seems to say bravo drain plugs are allen key type. My car has a hex-bolt
Originally Posted by v8 rick or some numpty has lost the sump plug and just stuck any old bolt in Cheers nick thats what I think has happened. can you confirm should the bolt be going straight into the sump at 90degres
Originally Posted by Courty89 Hi Ive heard that the cylinder head and camshafts from the punto mk2b 1.4 16v sporting wit fit onto the 1.2 16v engine block is this possible What work would be needed to fit and what performance gain are we looking at thanks for reading it will bolt to the block and exhaust manifold inlet i think is also the same as people use bravo bits to 1.4 convert seicentos performance
use the search button and find minifreaks topic and link to the puntosports forum where there was a lengthy topic about him fitting the 16vT coupe engine into a mk1. he did it but with some metal work and a very large shoehorn. AFAIK no one has done a 20vT to good effect. simply NOT wide enough (youll notice HGT bravos are wider than 4cyl models to cator for the 5pot engine). AND the head is freaking
From my experience of fiats (over the years Ive had an Uno a Tipo three Mk1 Puntos and a bravo HGT) the worst thing about them in relation to other manufacturers is shoddy electrics. I think this is something theyve improved on these days but on older cars its something to watch out for... I have a Punto Sporting the same age as the one the OP is looking at which Ive owned for just over two years.
by m20b25 Possibly the sump seal Ive sen these perish on some cars Youve just reminded me of mine thanks was going to see if i could get away with tightening the bolts. Ive got a gearbox leak on mine topped it up an just leaked even more lol. will get round to that at some point. also you wont notice any leaks on the ground if you have an undertray fitted. Just came back from scrappy an the bravo
sump is just a few bolts not sure if you need to loosen the gearbox off a bit to get it off (usually dont but on some cars you do) but either way the gasket usually makes it very difficult to prise the sump off once the bolt sare removed often making people (me) think there must be more bolts.
Its all about fulcrums - get your hex bolt and breaker bar on there then slip a bit of scaffolding pole or your jack handle over that for some extra length. The sump bolts should hold it in place and if they dont then Id suggest a) They needed replacing anyway b) Youve still managed to get the oil out albeit very messy Suggest soaking it in some PlusGas first though just to help loosen it up a smidge.
Had the same problem on my Punto once. Some %% mechanic had tightened the sump bolt so much that it wouldnt come undone in any way. Took it to a garage where the mechanic drilled it and hammered it off. It was then replaced with a common bolt that fitted the diameter. Luckily no damage was done on the sump casing.
Originally Posted by bluejohn125 Get some heat on it. make sure you heat the sump more than the bolt you need the sump to expand more than the bolt
Hi welcome to the forum. Can you take a picture im confused as to where its coming from. From top to bottom the engine goes Rocker cover - Aluminiom has fiat 12V printed on Cylinder Head - Aluminium has exhaust pipe bolted on Engine Block sump
i think one or more of the 3 gearbox linkages has been bent during sump removal. the alloy metal of the main gearbox linkage (the one with the weight on) is easy to bend and can then catch on one of the others (ive done it on mine before without applying much force at all). id remove the battery and battery tray then get someone to select each gear while you carefully look at the moving gearbox linkages.
yep its usually the sump gasket that leaks oil into the gearbox bell housing. its not a diffcult job to replace the gasket but it can be a pain if you have to do it with the car jacked up. getting the sump to come off once the bolts are removed can be difficult. it sticks on like its glued in place.
Head gasket is relatively simple just a few things to watch out for The head bolts take an M9 ribe head. Use new bolts when assembling The lifters will fall out of the extention a carefully cut heatsheild or cardboard will keep them in place (copy the haynes manual for the exact dimentions) Change the water pump when the engines at this stage Timing can be a curse so before you put the extention back