Tap the dashboard it should be ok then. If not the contacts inside the dial are loose you will just have to take it out and clean the contacts. There are few posts on the forum about how to clean the contacts.
Welcome to the forum. Priming the fuel pump will take away fuel from the tank and since the level sensor is in the tank priming it once or more times will not make any difference. Did you get the car new or SH is this a new problem Do you use the same service station and the same pump when you fill it up I suggest that at your next fill up you let it fill up on auto and then very carefully add some
fitted in at this point that would be 180 out on the crank if the timing was to be set with no1 at tdc .but it would be clipp ing vaklves big style if it were out that much so i guess the timing is ok were to go next a.a pin out test the car is running fine now at idle it will rev out great no problems there but as soon as its put under load the car just boggs out . in the world of non fiat
dont guess the timing is ok. what did you use to time it a compression test would be very useful now. Originally Posted by shuggy the car is running fine now at idle it will rev out great no problems there but as soon as its put under load the car just boggs out. that is what happens when you have poor compression so timing is still top of my list. Originally Posted by shuggy in the world of non fiat
clean and then drain the fuel tank to clear all the dirt out. to reverse the pump you should depressurise the fuel system then remove the fuel outlet pipe near the engine and place it in a container filler with clean petrol. turning the ignition on should activate the pump it will pump constantly in an attempt to build up pressure this will clean out the filter. i havent tried this method on a bravoa
both the idle speed actuator and the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold were changed by the previous owner replaced with brand new parts I even have the old ones in the new box. I did not do an ECU reset after doing the temp sensor but I did a full one only a few miles before after doing the lambda . The only area I have not explored is the fuel pressure regulator that sits in the fuel tank although it runs ok it does sound similar to an old X19 I had when the float level was wrongly set. I have not looked at this as it would have no bearing on the cold start issue so discounted it the only other thing to experiment with would be to take off the crankcase ventilator to see if that has an effect. Will fiddle again this weekend I have three Alfas and none have been as much of a PITA as this bravo.
much else i can do for me baby til my tools arrive. And I just read about the engine oil level display That comes up when you put your key in the ignition well I hadnt paid much attention to it but says here if during the ignition there is an interruption or fault on the detection circuit the oil messages flashes for ten seconds. if at the next start up the oil message flashes again go to the fiat
the pump on the assembly which contains level sensor However the Electric fuel pump can be split from the assy and serviced alone This bare fuel pump (apparently) also fits SYTEC REPLACMENT IN TANK fuel INJECTION PUMP FOR IN TANK PUMP MODELS ONLY SUITABLE FOR THE FOLLOWING MODELS BARACHETTA 1.8 16V (SRIS) 1998 - ON BRAVA 1.4 12V 101995 - 101998 BRAVA 1.6 16V 1996 - 1998 BRAVA 1.6 IAW 16V 51995 bravo
There are some very good advisers on the board and a few of them are in this string...and Im not one of them. But when I got my first bravo 1242 16v CF3 I had problems too. Check your plug colouring to see youre getting a clean bang check the HTs and coil and battery &8211 for a new owner it might be an idea. I found a tear in one HT lead and when I replaced along with nice strong Varta and new plugs
I think that the signal comes from Body Computer FUNCTIONAL DESCRIPTION The ignition-controlled supply (INT) for the instrument panel E50 reaches pin 3 of the Body Computer M1 via the line for fuse F37 of the junction unit under the dashboard B2. The direct power supply reaches pin 2 from the Body Computer M1 via the line for fuse F53 of the junction unit under the dashboard B2 Pin 1 is earthed. The
Originally Posted by Tad-bravo you must buy this first Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner Scan tool Amazon.co.uk Electronics and then use an app on your phone if you use android the best app is called Torque. just bought and installed this and Torque app on my SE X10i both working well have set a custom display with boost and coolant temperature cant seem to get a intake temp sensor configured
Originally Posted by clock34 but if you can live without a functional CAN system then it will fit and run quite well -). A car will not function without certain elements of the CANBUS working. It controls everything from fuel pump and level gauge to the temp sensor in the instrument panel and brake lights etc. Not as simple as can you live without it unfortunately
Originally Posted by Most Easterly Pandas A car will not function without certain elements of the CANBUS working. It controls everything from fuel pump and level gauge to the temp sensor in the instrument panel and brake lights etc. Not as simple as can you live without it unfortunately it is it just means you need to use a aftermarket ecu to run the engien and fit the fuel pump on a switched live.
first the brake light check your fluid level when the fluid gets low the light will come on sometimes (usually when going roung corners or braking hard). on a 1.6 its always tempting to scream injector failure (or coil failure) but in this case it does not sound like the injectors or coil pack are the problem. the main clue for me is the engine cutting out. when slowing down the injectors do not inject
Originally Posted by pk1uk any help please How many miles on the car and when did it last have an oil & filter change All engines burn a little oil older ones burn more and old oil will push up Co2 levels. Try the temperature sensor maybe If that has failed it could be over-fuelling thinking the engine is still cold.
OK. Well... my car is re-mapped because the chipping thing didnt look right to me especially a cheap chip all it does (if it is a chip and not a resistor) is over-fuel the motor by fooling it electronically. It might pass the MoT with the chip removed or the over-fuelling may have caused bore - wash where oil is washed from the cylinder bores by high levels of fuel leading to high oil burning. Can
I would normally suggest getting the system interogated but I am not sure what protocol a V reg will be. Might be worth having a look at the resistance of the temp sensor assuming all levels still correct. Cheers SPD
Got diagnostics done faulty throttle position sensor. However and its a big one engine started making horrific squeeking noises def not fan belt squeek although sounds like one x1000. Def coming from engine however car now being scrapped as mechanics think engine about to seize despite normal oil levels and care taken over car. Wont turn over for more than 5 seconds unless throttle held open.
power. So any problems there or anywhere in the feed to relay T9 will cause intermittent relay operation Do you have wiring diagrams __________________ 02 Stilo 1.6 Dynamic 3 door 99 bravo 1.2SX Last edited by Deckchair5 30-10-2009 at 1846 .   Quote   30-10-2009   23 T14086 Forum Moderator   Join Date Sep 2004 Location Bristol Posts 29792 Thanks 1031 Trader Rating 0   Re fiat
Heres an update. I removed the TB and cleaned it out ( it was filthy ) and the car idles fine now. Driving the car is now miss firing again ( especially after over run ) and is using a LOT more fuel than it did. It also kicked a load of this out of the exhaust ( see picture ) Thank you for all your inputs and advice. __________________ fiat Forum Useful Links Donate to FF    Buy FF Merchandise
i made a straight through exhaust for my 1.6 bravo (downpipe back) and it didnt like it one bit. ive made exhausts for several cars and never seen an engine where back presure made so much difference in my life. putting the cat back on made a bit of difference but i ended up going back to the full original exhaust which improved performance and fuel economy a lot. still i wouldnt assume samanthacoopers
what is the chance of the old engine and the new one both having the timing out in a similar fashion causing the same problem. if anything you can rule out the engie and everything else that was changed over including any sensors attached to the engine. i agree the crank sensor is likely but that should show up on a diagnostic with an obvious fault code (although any diagnostic tool other than a fiat
jtd multijet smoking on start up 3 YouTube - jtd multijet smoking on start up 3 heres a recent rolling road(no blue smoke at all under loadlittle bit of black) YouTube - sussexas Channel YouTube - sussexas Channel maybe its a bit worse than that now (with decat)but still clears as quick(35000 miles) a few other 16v owners had similar issue have another search im sure one went to tech center and fiat
(easily available on Ebay) is all youd need to read fault codes and clear them __________________ 02 Stilo 1.6 Dynamic 3 door 99 bravo 1.2SX Last edited by Deckchair5 01-10-2010 at 2023 .   Quote   02-10-2010   7 robnic Get Your Own Title   Join Date Apr 2010 Location Mansfield notts Posts 64 Thanks 0 Trader Rating 0   Re Warning message on startup Ok so i got the laptop and fiatecuscan
I suppose it might affect the ECU regulation of the fuelair mixture as engine is always coldcool running rich Probably affect engine in the long run Not a particularly difficult job (correct tools always helps...so does a Haynes Manual). Most important of all have lots of patience. It can get frustrated at times. This is what I can remember when I had a go myself 1) Drain coolant removal of coolant
How old are the plugs are they the gapable type if so they may need cleaning and re gapping or new plugs. You could have the early signs of a coil problem or it may be and engine managment sensor on the blink what does your engine temp read when it refuses to start stright away is it on the cool side if it is then maybe you are over fueling as the ECU thinks the engine needs some for want of a better
Originally Posted by perfectpercy I have locked the camshaft and set the pistons so that they are level MDC i think is what it is called then i have refitted the belt. when i turn the engine over it just spins as though there is no compression. On the crankshaft pulley there is a space between the teeth this i assume is for the crank position sensor. does this control out the ignition timing Maybe
The max the car is allowed is .50 CO on a low idle Youve got .67 When your getting the lamba to read the voltages should be moving up and down from 0.01 to 1v some are .1 to .9 Showing the car is seeing and altering the fuel mixture level If the voltage is simply Stuck at 1v itll be running richer then it should im assuming been a 2000 its a not got a pre and post cat It could be a Dead lamba to me
cheers jug had a look and its misfiring from starting and through the rev range to 4000rpm then fine. No engine management light or injector lights so to test that system i unplugged the MAF sensor (i think- in airflow pipe and connected to ignition wiring) and created a fault critical to performance and got errors on the dash so that system works. Plugged it all back in and faults cleared immediatly
Originally Posted by matty_jones_1989 have a brava 1.9jtd and have been told i can tweak the turbo to give more boost is it possible and is it easy to do. it is a standard turbo aswell btw cheers Not really as yours is a JTD . On older non ECU governed engines you were able to tweek diesel engines by doing 2 main things which need doing in balance and at low levels to maintain reliability and safe