you need a new fuel line. try using eper .fiatforum.com to get your part number and price.
again and again thanks jug I will do that
Hi. Thanks for all the replys. My clutch was slipping so just had new clutch fitted and they told me my coolant was low due to a bust hose so car was going over mid temp level a lot of the time. This has now been fixed so will hopefully give me a slightly better comsumption. I also put new spark plugs in too. As for the exhaust When the car starts up from cold you can hear a slight blowing noise coming
thank you m20b25 yes it supplies fuel. When the car didnt start i didnt realise that whilst i was trying the petrol was just pumping out of it and I ended up in a lake of petrol. think Ill take your advice and go for a new one.
area well . Im looking forward to your updates. If you have not already have a nosey around the forum for inspiration. bravoBravaMarea Guides Section View all the bravos In the Members Motors section View all the bravos In our Forum Garage View all the Bravas In the Members Motors Section View all the Bravas In our Forum Garage __________________ Parts Wanted. I will consider any new original fiat
Hello you may have an overfuelling problem as jug suggests. Is the engine pulling properly i.e. as powerful as usual . Check all your hoses esp from turbo to inlet manifold . Then check that the turbo is working properly although when just revving the engine for testing there is no real boost produced. Have a look at the pump and make sure the cold start advance is not stuck on and have a look for
what utter tripe next time you are out in the garden with a water hose stick your finger over the outletsee how the pressure builds up and how finer spray you get but you dont get any more water out of the pipe after all the metering is already set by the tap. Sooo you get a better burn ie more power quicker pick up and therefore do not use any more fuel. Now take my tunnig box on my 80k bravo
Originally Posted by Stilo Stew Hi Folks. Just wanted to share a recent &8216problem&8217 with my 1.9 Multijet (120 Version). Had noticeably less power than usual between 1500-2500 rpm on the way into work this morning (Was quite embarrassing pulling away from junctions lights etc.) Managed to limp into work. Checked all hoses etc at lunchtime nothing loose. But noticed that the fuel filter connectors were slightly lifted and pushed them back down (made a click when pushed). Went for a drive and power had returned All is well again Could the fuel filter have been the problem I&8217m not sure if the 1.9 8 valve has an EGR valve so I&8217m hoping that this is the answer as the car is an &821707 plate. Any comments would be much appreciated. Cheers. well if the pipes were kinked in anyway the engine might of been getting starved of fuel... your lucky it didnt just cut out when you put your foot down if it was the fuel filter causing the problem If the power has returned though after you sorted that out.. that must of been the problem well i would of thought so.. out of interest where abouts is the fuel filter on the bravo
fuel filter connections do not just unclip themselves I to have noticed my diesel filter connections are lifted but not to the extended of unclipping theres say a 1cm of movement which is normal as soon as pressure is present the hoses lift up a little. Are you postive you heard a click. As anyone been under your bonnet lately I dont think you have resolved your issue.. take it to the dealer for a diagnostic scan.. its free and worth it.
The TD100 turbo is a bit of a whistler anyway so you should not go on noise alone unless its really load and doesent go away when the revs get up. Make sure there are no cracked loose split hoses or holed intercooler. You can do a basic check for boost by squeezing the hose from the intercooler to manifold with your fingers and giving the engine a good revving you should feel the hose fill out a
there isnt an eobd light on the bravo do you mean the light that looks like a hose pipe squirting fluid if so thats the fuel injection system fault light or more commonly called the engine management light. it only comes on if there is a fault 99% of the tme due to a sensor fault or failure. unlike most engine management lights it can not be reset be the dealer or anyone else it turns itself off automatically
there is no fuel pump light i think you mean the fuel injection system fault light (looks like a hose with water coming out). the fuel injection system fault light on fiats is the same and the engine management light on other brands. it simply means the ecu has noticed a fault or out of range signal. that could be anything so a diagnostic at a dealer is probably the best thing to do at this stage.
I think it allows the engine to breathe easier.. allows more air in and thus make it more powerful. Air to fuel mixture Ive seen k&n filters for the 1.9 multijet on ebay but just the filter ..no kit which are various pipeshosesbrackets. I hope what i said is correct but im sure someone with more knowledge will sum it up better for you UKDucatiman. Btw hows ur mapped bravo doing.. i had mine map and had to revert it back to standard.
how did you get dual twin tailpipes on your bravo I was told this couldnt be done because of the spare wheel well being in the way of the right hand side... AND... more importantly... theres a fuel pump hose right next to where the right hand side exhaust box would sit... VERY dodgy.
Disconnect the fuel filter it should all just run out of the hose there. Might take a while though.
Originally Posted by julieiito Hi cheers for the reply but where is the fuel filter I never tried this before but once I was told that you could disconnect the hose connecting to the fuel pressure regulator (it should be not to far from the injection rail in case it is multi-point) and then turn the ignition on so the fuel pump is activated draining the fuel tank rather quickly. Whatever you do be extra careful - for obvious reasons
Originally Posted by nunesaf I never tried this before but once I was told that you could disconnect the hose connecting to the fuel pressure regulator (it should be not to far from the injection rail in case it is multi-point) and then turn the ignition on so the fuel pump is activated draining the fuel tank rather quickly. Whatever you do be extra careful - for obvious reasons Dont do this youll
the noise is still there after an exhaust change so it is definately something we need to investigate further. Originally Posted by Skate2create Air inlet leakage that was my first thought. interestingly your idle rpm when warm is actually a little bit low (should be 850 in an ideal world but 800-900 is expected) and an inlet leak would usually cause a high idle rpm. however that could still mean you
Originally Posted by musclemuse No to both of those And no injector light either Hi might be worth checking all your electrical connections under the bonnet ie- Battery plug leads and take out your spark plugs and check those what kind of service history has it got That engine has just one injector so could be clogged and worth putting in some injector cleaner in the fuel tank and run it down the motorway see if that helps. Also worth checking for air and vacuum leaks on the hoses and pipes.
i have heard people say things like between 1 and 5 bhp. depends on the filter and things. obviously the wider the filter and the larger the filter the more air you can get into the engine. also some people have wide hoses connecting from the filter to the engine to get even more air in to the car. the more air you can get in to the engine the better the fuel combustion. which means the faster the
you need to check the timing. is the fuel injection system fault light illuminated (looks like a hose squirting water)
My lights were a bit yellow as well as Pete says it could be a power thing. I also had water in mine a bit of rag some tie wraps an old coathanger and an hours worth of cursing sorted that out. Still got a bit of condensation so it looks like an old hairdryer and a length of rubber hose next.[)][)] The lights are still not very white. Im going to fit some xenons. Ill let you know if it makes any difference. Got more additives than fuel in my tank.
I just swapped out the filter. I used one for a 95 Xantia that a fitment chart claims is the same as the proper one was out of stock. Its not the same the ends are bulged a bit as is suitable for a hose-clamp type fitment not the plastic fiat ones. Since I didnt feel like riding my bike back to the shop (already 70 km today to get there and back) I hacksawed off the bulges. Works fine. For those interested
Try checking the hoses related to the turbointercoolerairfilter etc they could have a rip or have become loose and cause your loss of power. Also when have the fuelairfilter been replaced last
As standard the 150 is a high compression turbo engine with whats got to be the smallest turbo i have ever seen on a petrol turbo car With the high compression this means that it is still torquey whilst off boost allowing better driving capability BUT this means when running higher boost levels the piston is then under higher extremes of pressure and heat which in long term causes detonation Ide imagine
on the 1.6 there is only 1 coolant temp sensor for both the gauge and ecu . i would try replacing the instrument panel to see if that cures it (you will need to adjust the mileage). it is also possible that the thermostat is stuck open causing overcooling have you checked if the coolant hoses are hot when gauge says cold
I believe the thermostat is ok. The heater blows warm by the end of the road and proper hot within a couple of miles although I havent checked the hose temp. Where is the sensor Ill try earthing it with the ignition on that should give a full hot reading at the gauge. -- Rene
can I use a pump that connects to the hose other similar objects are sold they should be connected directly to the tubing and shall replace the original pump. or do I need the original pump.
I think the rear wiper is supposed to work intermittantly. As for the clicking noise I use to clean the connectors on the tailgate and to get rid of it.... As for the water jet the valve might be clogged try to clean it or replace it with a pice of pipe of some sort. You can find it under the bonnet just beneath the windshield to the right just follow the hose Hope this helps
up close and perosonal myself. Looks like its sat a bit far back maybe pushing it on and putting a little fuel pipe jubilee on lightly will sort it. Check the other end of the hose to see if its been messed with. Never had success with non-genuine budget sensorselectrical parts myself and vowed never to waste money on them again. __________________ Parts Wanted. I will consider any new original fiat
Originally Posted by Adrian bravo Damn i was typing sparkplugs in my last post and removed it before posting . After seeing that spark plug Id be tempted to get a compression test done on the engine. If the guys that changed the cambelt did it by the book cylinder 1 spark plug would have been removed to fit a top dead centre guage to time the cambelt so that spark plug must have been ok at that time.
Originally Posted by fiat_-_bravo If it is spitting fuel out through the carb have you checked the fuel presure regulator. this engine is overfueling and spitting back because he removed the top of the throttle case which i assume means some vacuum hoses will have been removed.
Originally Posted by fiat37 That hose is for fuel vapour intake. On 1.6 bleeding points are bottom hose to the radiator in hose leadeing to internal heater and small-diameter hose on thermostate housing. There is also 1 screw next to starter motor which allows you more complete draining. is it supposed to be not connected to anything so that makes it 4 screws is the location of the screws in 1.6 diffrent
you can do it all yourself. if you really dont feel confident get a haynes manual. you dont need to completely change the brake fluid just top it up (if neccessary it may not need it). same for gearbox if you get the fiat sump plug key you can use that to remove the gearbox filler cap and then simply dip your finger in the hole to feel for the fluid if you cant feel it top it up (pour some gearbox
The ecotek needs to be fitted close to the manifold so that it has maximum effect. The fuel purge brake servo fuel regulator and sometimes the blowpast recovery hoses all meet those requirements. I would not use the fuel regulator hose as it may give injector lag as the ecotek lowers the vacuum. The blowpast recovery hose sometimes has a non return valve fitted in the block in which case its no good.
Sumplug I would agree with you for the older bravos and Mareas however the JTD is a common rail engine. The pump is purely providing pressure to the rail. It does not have any control over timing or injection quantity. The common rail pump does not need to be timed. The injectors are electronically opened there is no spring in there to adjust for pop off pressure. If you had any debris in the injector