its not possible and even if it was it wouldnt do you any good. the mounting points are different at top of struts lengths are different front and rear hubs wont connect to shocks on front shocks wont connect to arms on rear it would be more difficult than a coupe brake conversion. get springs for your car and if you still arent satisfied then get some gas shocks too. personally i think a set of lowering
car on a daily basis and really not want to get out of it but go around th eblock one more time what colour you also thinking of sorry guys I will have to borrow a digi camera as mine broke a while back and have not got around to getting a new one but will get one in next day or so for some piccies. But first impressions of the car in under a week of driving it IT DOES NOT feel like driving a fiat
check you brake discs are not warped. you said you have changed the tires so its not them unless they are not balanced correctly. when you go round sharpe corners does the car seem to not wanna go in that direction when you put your foot down. i would go to the garage straight away to be safe there is something loose in you suspension and i would recomend you driven at 140mph Proud owner of a bravo
A big rock or lump of concrete behind the rear wheel to stop it rolling back in front of the front wheel to stop it rolling forward . Trolley jack under suspension arm ends (subframe end at front spring cup at rear.) If you use the sill jacking points you need a block to fit or make one to fit. Beware the tyre-shop boys who just jack up on the sill and you have to repaintseal after each trip. (My drive-on ramps are too steep for the low front of the bravo. and I never use axle stands because I saw some collapse once)
Hi steve you maybe arent too far away from me welcome to come and have a look alternatively I am racing at mallory park near Hinckley on Sunday if you want to have a look then. Regarding the Pectel the reason I ask is G and G motorsport who maps mine are highly involved with PectelPI and Phil who runs it is the most honest and direct operator I know - trusted 100%. Bit of a way though in Horncastle
Thanks rich and Im in leicester so ill pop along on sunday and have a chat. I know mallory well. I understand the tipo and bravo shells are very similar does the suspension cross over etc any other shard parts also after some decent suspension and where do i get the madeno solid front arm kit Its going to be a budget build really as I have another project lined up so any help or advice would be great Im a ford man really but doing this as something different. Steve
means an alfa 2.4 should sit on a Marea 2.4 front chasis. That means I can use Marea lower arms driveshafts hubs and suspension. Mechanically getting the engine to fit seems the easy part. The hard part will be how much of the Alfa electronics I need to bring over So the hunt is on for a snapped cam -belt HGT (or some other engine failure) and a body-munched Alfa 2.4JTD. 170bhp version. The bravo
elearn says eLearn - Contents To raise the vehicle using lift arms or a workshop lift arrange the ends of the arms or the lift in the areas shown in the diagram only. Take care on the SPORT versions not to damage the side miniskirts The vehicle should only be raised at the side. After lifting the vehicle support it on safety stands. It is absolutely forbidden to lift the vehicle by positioning the
Youve done the main stuff but Id put a bolt in cage in. Spring rates - stiff 130 Nmm rear similar on the front Lack of good quality dampers for this platform I have seen pro-flex fitted to coupe rally cars. I have AST fronts are simple McPherson as you know not too hard to spec. Rear suspension is the issue non adjustable trailing arms are very heavy and a pain for a track car with toe in and no neg
high-pressure clips which leak. But that will be a story for another day... -Alex Attached Thumbnails           __________________ SOLD 03 Stilo Abarth Selespeed 02 Spider V6 SOLD 00 Spider TS SOLD 09 159 JTDm SOLD 88 Uno Turbo i.e. 71 850 Coupe in bits... so really just the one car Last edited by alexGS 20-07-2007 at 1318 .   Quote   20-07-2007   14 The Sultan bravo
clunking over bumps) are due to worn front wishbone bushes - also on Tipos and I guess Puntos. On my car I have changed these also drop links track rods track rod ends - all over time. Very common areas for wear and noises.... On my Tipo (1995) a lot of crashing from the back end was due to failed subframe mounting bushes - you can find some special replacement bushes for the Tipo and Bravabravo
I was thinking exactly that too. worn front wishbone bushes 2 of the mechanics found that also they suspect the drop links im in a dilemma i dont really know if i should buy whole arms or just the bushings the joints on arm ar still great no play in there but the bushings....not so good also my rear subframe mounts look okay last time i checked the rubber was in good condition ill check the break
Bebyko no more videos please.... you need to change the front wishbones and droplinks for sure so decide which mechanic you like and which supplier you will use If you are very unlucky then the main ARB bushes (to the car) could be worn but I think this is not common. While the front end is dismantled check the track rod ends and also release check and grease the shock strut top mount bearings. For
If its one thing i hate the most its not giving a car problem a proper diagnostic fiats are so complex that my problems could be caused by a lot of things i cant just start trowing parts at this car i need to make sure 100% that the parts im changing are the ones causing the problems and im saying that cause im a god damn student and as you can imagine i dont have lots of pennies in my pocket i came
Well I took it to a garage and got my car back yesterday. Apparently the knocking was the ball joint on the front passenger suspension arm. They replaced the arm and now it is all fine. Only cost about 70 quid. Dunno if that is good or not 1 down 2 to go...
I had a issue of a knocking from the front suspension but only in the wet i know a lot of others experience this. Ive taken it to the dealers who didnt seem to find any faults. The replaced the top suspension mounts but still the same the anti roll bar and links are fine. I decided to inspect my self and now i dont hear a single noise this is what i did.... put car on a ramp and got some WD40 lubricated
Originally Posted by bluejohn125 Hi yes I fitted Excel-Gs all round to my Brava a few years ago they are good value and feel slightly firm or sporty (at least when you first fit them you notice). Im happy with them although I like trawling ebay to see if there are any bargain Sachs or Boge units as they are very good too. The ordinary Bravas bravos and Mareas all seem to take the same shocks unless
extreme comparison time in my bravo compared to my 500 at high speed on the nurburgring i was able to carry much higher speed into the high speed sections and if i did lift it wasnt upset at all in the 500 at Hohe Acht (uphill left hander after Karussell) i nearly ended up in the armco because of rear instability (induced by a small confidence lift) and had a big tank slapper which the esp took over
Originally Posted by RobW extreme comparison time in my bravo compared to my 500 at high speed on the nurburgring i was able to carry much higher speed into the high speed sections and if i did lift it wasnt upset at all in the 500 at Hohe Acht (uphill left hander after Karussell) i nearly ended up in the armco because of rear instability (induced by a small confidence lift) and had a big tank slapper
Originally Posted by John Knight So what makes you think its NOT the gearbox then Is it easy to check if the droplink is smashed Experience. Ive smashed 2 boxes and they never make the wheel hop like you described which sounds like a suspension component has failed. If you jack the car up you can see the drop links from the anti roll bar attached to the front arm. While looking at the arm if the boot is split the ball joint is gone which also creates a knocking noise
They have the NCT over here which is the equivelant but is only tested every 2 years - due again in 2 months. When we bought it there was obviously an impact on the car once upon a time the front right headlight has the brackets still broken. Clean snap but all still in place and the lines on the bonnet look uneven. Checked it at the time and there was no obvious signs of damage to frame - got rac
today i took hub assembly off the suspension wishbone and steering and removed perished engine mount ready to replace new one tomorrow then i gotta attach recond drive shaft and take her for a shake down if she dont pop again hurrah something else i did today covered the centre console arm rest in black leather to match the rest of the front interior ill get some pics tomorrow when its re attached.
It will be one or more worn front suspension components all fairly standard wear and tear on these cars. Chief suspects normally (especially for clonks on bumps) are the lower wishbones track control arms. The bushes on these wear regularly. Change the whole unit if faulty not too difficult or expensive. Otherwise it sounds like your anti-roll bar bushes may be shot the ARB is linked to the wheel
Originally Posted by jug only hard part is getting the nut off the top of each strut make life easy on yourself and have the top nut loosened on both struts before you start work. Oil all bolts well before you start work. Rears are easiest. Shouldnt require spring compressors. fronts - as Jug says loosen the top nut before starting. You will need to drift out the bolts holding the strut to the hub carrier - a flat ended cold chissel is ideal. Also while you have the brakes and strut out the way - might be an idea to replace the lower arms as the outer ball joint isnt renound for lasting very long on mid-sized fiats .
Originally Posted by Hellcat Oil all bolts well before you start work. Rears are easiest. Shouldnt require spring compressors. fronts - as Jug says loosen the top nut before starting. You will need to drift out the bolts holding the strut to the hub carrier - a flat ended cold chissel is ideal. Also while you have the brakes and strut out the way - might be an idea to replace the lower arms as the outer ball joint isnt renound for lasting very long on mid-sized fiats . had the offside ball joint replaced recently but will bear it in mind. cal
the dynamic above the sport has a fridge and armrest with small storage... front and rear electric windows... and climate control the sport misses these as standard and has bigger wheels... rear spoiler... and side skirts (not sure about different suspension etc)
Originally Posted by JFL the dynamic above the sport has a fridge and armrest with small storage... front and rear electric windows... and climate control the sport misses these as standard and has bigger wheels... rear spoiler... and side skirts (not sure about different suspension etc) The Sport also has ESP which the Dynamic doesnt.
Originally Posted by JFL the dynamic above the sport has a fridge and armrest with small storage... front and rear electric windows... and climate control the sport misses these as standard and has bigger wheels... rear spoiler... and side skirts (not sure about different suspension etc) The dynamic comes with a fridge tell me more lol is this as standard
Originally Posted by RobW the standard bumper occasionally grounds out over speed humps on a non lowered car so an aftermarket item would just get destroyed Drop the rear more to raise the front. I find its actually the bolts that hold the suspension arms onto the subframe that scrape
Originally Posted by bravotony hi discoverd big squeek is coming from front drivers and little squeek at back drivers can anyone tell if i can change just the bushes and if so which ones how much are the bushes and how do you do it. if i can change just the bushes which ones on front and which on back. if i cant change just bushes what do i need to change cheers tony Do you get any clunking noises You would tend to replace the Anti-roll bar bushes on the front as they can squeak however worn rubbers on the swing arms and drop links too can cause squeaks. I cant tell you which to replace without experiencing it for myself. So change the cheapest first. The rear bushes well they dont technically exist. But there is a bush on the swing arms that can perish. If you goto www.shop4parts.co.uk Select fiat bravoSteering & suspensionBushes youll find what you need. All are Genuine or OEM parts.
Another thing about the Multipla is the lack of granularity when it comes to parts bushes are shot cant buy replacement bushes (from fiat anyway) but they will supply a new arm same with the front ARB bushes shot new ARB . Parts arent ridiculously expensive but as you say they do wear out front arms are annoying as Ive had mine replaced recently and like you it cost me a pair of tyres as well although
more than generous. When I bought the car the intention was to use it not leave it over night at the dealers every month. Yes there are courtesy cars available but theyre charged at a per day basis. Now why should I be paying for anything when its supposed to be under warranty Safety aside every time the car is driven its costing me money in premature wear and tear. Now that both the dealer and fiat
Hmm if its had 3 owners & the last 2 have been since 2010 then the first owner might not have been fiat afterall. Maybe it was actually bought from a dealer in the Bristol area rather than being registered at the docks - if it was a press or employee car as i originally thought then it wouldve probably been sold by fiat after a year & then the 2 subsequent owners had it from then. In this instance
Originally Posted by Thrisey I would have a look at the lower suspension arm bushes and make make sure they are tight as well check ball joint pinch bolts are good and ball joint is where it should be . Have a look at suspension top mount front subframe mounts as well. Would also look at the front brakes arethey sticking loose calipers etc Did it start this after any work done if so what was it and was it done properly my 1.6 sx bravo 1997 does same but pulls to right. clunk comes from front driver side wheel
Your post is a bit confusing... are you saying that the problem started when you had the new tyres fitted If so then it should have nothing to do with CV joints or subframes unless something got damaged or fitted incorrectly... Cant comment on the CV joint theory its possible that on an older car they can go but I dont think its a common fault (at least not on fiatforum). The most likely and usual
&163150 i used to charge &16350 for any car and i thought that was expensive. its very easy to do yourself. rather than write it out again heres one of my previous efforts reposted to fit rear springs you jack car up to just before the point where the rear wheel is lifted into the air take nut off on bottom of shock jack car up higher until shock is clear of trailing arm slot old spring off swap the
to fit rear springs you jack car up to just before the point where the rear wheel is lifted into the air take nut off on bottom of shock jack car up higher until shock is clear of trailing arm slot old spring off swap the rubber bit onto the new spring slot new spring into position slowly lower car until shock is back in position bolt shock back onto trailing arm you can do both rear springs very quickly