Originally Posted by lyubohar Went to a garage for some simple cosmetic repairs and went home with a dead airbag computer What happened is my battery malfunctioned (not depleted just some cell went faulty). The guys at the garage thought it just died and tried to wake the car with cables . The result is they seem to fried my airbag control unit which costs about 600 EUR from the official dealership.
My airbag ecu died on my a month ago a few days after my car had had its cambelt replaced by the garage. It cost me 1200 AUS to repair including parts and labour They had no idea what caused it and ive had no issues with the battery that I know of (wifes car).... At least im not the only one its happend too and in reality its the first thing that has gone wrong with the Car in 4 yrs of ownership lyubohar thanked for this post
garages have high power boost starters the can easily fry an ecu their fault to fix
Problem fixed by taking the car to an ecu garage. Airbag ecu disassembled and reprogrammed - turned out it was not fried just the information got messy. All fixed now total cost about 60 EUR. The garage that caused it refused to cover the costs though.
HI all. I have a problem I took off all panels found the ecu unit... theres only ONE yellow cable coming out going straight to the steering wheel. How do you reset this Theres no socket to do it DId they mess with something at the factory or theres another way to reset it ANyone knows THanks... I need this despereately
See attached picture of my cleanpractically unused EGR valve. Hope it helps. Attached Thumbnails   __________________ Yorkshire IT AL IA   Quote   31-12-2012   4 sismithin Get Your Own Title   Join Date Mar 2012 Location united Kingdom Posts 81 Thanks 4 Trader Rating 0   Re EGR cleaned loss of power ecu DIY diagnosis. Originally Posted by Freebo See attached picture of my cleanpractically
Ive removed my origional head unit and the B&M ecu (leaving me a nice discreet place to stow my iPod Classic). Ive a top end Pioneer headunit fitted all steering wheel controls work with the exception of the Microsoft and Phone buttons which is understandable Not looked back since doing it.
Originally Posted by Most Easterly Pandas Ive removed my origional head unit and the B&M ecu (leaving me a nice discreet place to stow my iPod Classic). Ive a top end Pioneer headunit fitted all steering wheel controls work with the exception of the Microsoft and Phone buttons which is understandable Not looked back since doing it. Any chance of a pic
Its part of the ecu. Signal pickup in around the ignition barrel. Whyd you ask out of interest
Thanks Most easterly Basically there is an airbag light on which is the instrument cluster causing the issue. As the instrument cluster was removed for testing I now have the imob light coming on and was hoping it was in the instrument cluster rather than the engine ecu
I think that the battery is fine but i am going to check it sorry just everything is going wrong at the moent lol and its just my luck at the moment that it will be the ecu Im going to see when it hapens again as when it does the engine just cranks over if it does I will use the other key to see if it faults with that also. Im going to try and find the obd 2 connector which I think is under the glove box Ill check to see if there any fault codes. Cheers
Thanks for the reply. Heres what fiatecuScan says ecu ISO Code 7C 86 01 97 EF 01-Jun-12 61627 PM CONNECTED TO fiat bravoBRAVA 99 155 20V Bosch Motronic ME 3.1 (2.0 20V) -------------------------------------------------------------- ecu ISO code 7C 86 01 97 EF fiat drawing number 46551744 Hardware number 0261206068 Hardware version 00 Software number 1277356275 Software version 0000 Homologation number
Maybe you should check the immobiliser unit before doing anythin with ecu . ecus cost around 100 to get a refurbished one but i think you have to exchange your olds one. though the website i was just lookin at has them priced 200 pound. Here i found this thread about ecu an checking voltages. Dont no how relevent this is to you but cant harm to check it out. httpwww.fiatforum.combravo-brava...u-failure.html
Originally Posted by jug if its also misfiring under load do a compression test to see if the head gasket has blown especially between 2 cylinders (youd see very low compression on 2 side by side cylinders). its common on the 1.2. if its only an idle problem try using washers to space the throttle position sensor from the throttlebody. that often cures the 1.2s idle problem. Thanks for your attention
Hi there all right I found the airbag control unit took some pictures of it too. However I have some trouble finding a identical replacement part on the scrap yards. 46413633 would be the number needed. On later models as about 1996 the numbers have changed. So I suppose a part with a slightly different number from another bravo (like 1998) would not fit. Any suggestions Thanks Zardo Attached Thumbnails
The 1368cc na run a CR of 111 The 1368 turbo units run a CR of 9.81 The 1242 16v sits roughly in between with a CR of 10.61 It may be possible with proper setting up to run without decomp plate like Aaron suggested. Another alternative is to get your block bored out to 72mm if feasible and uses the fiat bravo T-Jet pistons Think they are about &163200 iirc you can use eper to check. Not sure how much
according to this pic its definately with the relays and fuses. Attached Thumbnails   __________________ 2.0 twinspark veloce   Quote   11-07-2007   8 D4nny8oy Get Your Own Title   Join Date Apr 2007 Location Yep still here. Posts 2854 Thanks 327 Trader Rating 0   Re Help My fiats Stalled ImmobiliserecuKey prob.... Jug- that pic is for the engine ecu . The keycode ecu is mounted
thanks for that dude it really helped couldnt seem to get that info from anyone else the cars at a garage at the mo but im sure the orange key light was on ive enquired about sending the ecu off so mite go for that option the garage are tellin me that when hooked up to the compo its sayin no connection to the keys and fiat want 60 quid for diagnositcs and 1200 for new ecu unit ignition barrel and locks so they gan go fck themselves lol thanks again dude
Thanks I am in the process of locating a secondhand unit. A question for those a lot more knowledgable than me in these matters. If the ecu warning light does not come on (i.e. to indicate a fault) is it still possible for fiat or some on else with the necessary diagnostic kit to determine whether there are any faults in the system (i.e. does it log faults or errors that dont cause the ecu light to illuminate) Thanks
Well despite first thoughts it would appear the answer is yes - you can remove the module without removing the pipes You need to remove the battery battery tray air inlet pipework and fusebox in the corner - then you need to remove the two bolts holding the ABS unit onto the bracket and there is just enough play in the rigid pipes to move it clear of the bracket and lean it slightly forward so you can get to the 4 bolts on the rear of the ecu . These are Torx E-5 bolts but can be easily removed with a 4mm socket - you will need a small 14 drive ratchet to squeeze in though as space is at a bit of a premium. Once removed you need to hacksaw the edges of the unit to gain access to the circuit board within then you need to re-solder a few connections. Basically the Volvo guide at this link tells you how to effect a repair once you have the module off as they use the same Teves MK20 system httpwww.volvoforums.org.ukshowthread.phpt72655 The result Soldered it up put it back together last night and left the silicone to cure fitted this morning and I no longer have a permanent ABS light - lovely Hellraiser.............. Adrian bravo thanked for this post
I took a look at the flashing report and here are some numbers injection ecu Bosch Motronic Me7.9.10 fw update version 9.18.0 fw update is solving following problems - problems by starting cold engine BTW It seems fiat has lot of troubles with firmware in more ecus in this car. Also the odometer starts flashing every once in the while. The climate control unit had strange behavior from time to timer.
Looked at this with a different fiat..130hp Barchetta and no real deal. The only option was an Italian N-Power race ecu at &8364550 fitting which gave 30Hp extra at the wheels. Downside is the unit isnt road legal...race technology. The insurance co went gaga when I asked for a quote..refused. Also the race units are very raw..designed to run the engine at full power with no frills and no consideration
Tested rpm sensor. it has in fact a resistance of 592 ohms. The coolant temp sensor is reading very accurately from 20 to 100 degrees from 2000 ohms down to 300 ohms when boiling water. These are perfect figures found on other sites. There is a ignition controlloer unit on the Right hand side of the cyl head are they prone to faults Are ecus prone to be faulty Thanks
the ignition controller unit you mention i think is the ignition power module. it prevents too much current going to the ignition coils. ive never heard of this part been faulty before. (careful you dont thread the bolts on this they should not be very tight ) the ecu is rarely faulty but it does happen. a diagnostic check at your local fiat dealer would be the best thing to try next. the fiat examiner smart machine can help a lot in situations like this.
Yeah got the complete car all it needs is an oil cooler for the engine to run the car was a stolen recovered and needs a light unit bonnet and wing to make it good. I am planning on taking the engine box shafts hubs and brakes and any other ancilleries i require. the ecu s are controled bythe immobiliser ecu which is a different unit. Thanks for the info Chris
Originally Posted by jellyhashman Sorry but a tuning box is nothing like a re-map. All the box does is trick the ecu into adding more fuel more boost by making the ecu think its colder than it really is etc. A re-map is where you change injection time smoke limiters fuel maps boost limiters and so on its nothing like the tuning box. Youre talking about the old method of plugging a resistor and some
Originally Posted by Tad-bravo Youre talking about the old method of plugging a resistor and some scammers selling it inside a bigger box to make it looks like a complicated device we are talking about modern tunning boxes such as TMC. From TMC website most of our units use multi channel technology this allows us to control not only fuelling but also turbo pressure No mate Im talking about any tuning
To add a little extra clarification about EGR and DPF modifications. Currently under UK VOSA MOT test criteria you can messchangedeleteremove EGR and DPF systems. With most post 2005 fiat diesel engines (especially the 16V units) then messing with EGR or DPF systems will eventually throw a MILError light on the dash. The only way to avoid the MILError is to have the engine ecu remapped to remove those
more authentic add on if you like the sound of it. You could try contacting Novitec directly for a video clip of their exhaust. Youtube has one for a bravo but cant be sure if its for the NA 1.4. lool i just found the same website u referred me to. Prices do look good though. Regarding the remap we have something here called PP Performance from Germany check them out They do ecu remaps for the fiat
Originally Posted by bodders Does anyone have any idea of what the problem may be abs controller. you can fix it using this guide httpwww.fiatforum.combravo-brava...tral-unit.html
Originally Posted by MJet1986 Any half decent tuner with a rolling road would be able too remap your car mate you prob get arnd 180bhp before u need things like a bigger turbo and intercooler etc. Unless the Tuner has some prior knowledge on the ecu of these cars or there is a mass market to explore on (neither true for the Australia nor HK markets) they are most likely decline to work on just a hand
assuming you remove all the parts yourself from a scrap car second hand ecu - &16310 (but it will not work on your car unless you get the codebox and red key chip) second hand cams - &16320 fuse box - &1635 washer bottle with pump - &1635 gearbox - &16350 inlet manifold - &16310 throttle body - &16310 maf sensor - &1635 airbox - &1635 coil packs - &1635 each radiator - &16310 crank - crankwhat the
If it is NOT injectors then you have to assume it is temperature-related. As mentioned before it seems that the thermostat is not working and the engine over-cools itself and doesnt get to temperature correctly. You should look at this there was another thread recently about this. It seems that the stat on the 1.6s is complicated and expensive The other thing is the temperature sender unit that fits
ok ive found the problem its deffinatly the throttle position sensorpotentiometer ive stripped it down and had a look all it is is a motor with a worm gear on it and a cog that sits on top of the potentiometer. put it back together and connected it up without screwing it back onto the throttle body and car idled perfectly however screwed it back on and its still revving high but less than before how
thanks very much for your help i will give it some serious thought. I guess you have to take the ecu unit off and send it to them dont you
Hi And take a cheap voltmeter (cheapie one from Aldi or Lidl etc) to put across the battery to make sure youve got a good 14.4-14.5V with the engine running at idle & the heated rear window main-beam headlights radio etc. all on as some of the alternators are swines to replace (I know the hard way - Im still no further forward with my TD100 one yet) Any suspicion of alternator trouble should prompt
the VSS signal is used for fuelling and timing torque calculation on the road so its possible that it may cause the problem although 10 l100km does seem very high. but how are you calculating the consumption e.g. . by filling tank to the neck each time . it seems the VSS signal comes from the ABS unit so maybe you would need to check the signal at the ecu pins using a scope to trace the problem.
Originally Posted by martmach1 Nice one mr Ti will post my findings when ive got a coil sorted.cheers. Hi sorry to see youre having the dreaded hot-start problem. I will be waiting to see if you ever get to solve this. My wifes 1.4 Brava started to do the same about 18 months ago. With the engine hot it will run OK and restart immediately if it stalls in traffic. It wont start if when hot it is left