Hi everybody. Is it me although I know you state its worded funny but surely the flywheel to crankshaft bolts are not same as the clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts. I have just changed the clutch on my 1.2L Brava and re-used the Ribe bolts and torqued up to the Haynes manual 25Nm (actually 27Nm as my torque does not go that low) and had no problems at all. Behind the clutch assembly there are
Originally Posted by maximoke Hi everybody. Is it me although I know you state its worded funny but surely the flywheel to crankshaft bolts are not same as the clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts. I have just changed the clutch on my 1.2L Brava and re-used the Ribe bolts and torqued up to the Haynes manual 25Nm (actually 27Nm as my torque does not go that low) and had no problems at all. Behind
Hi yes the T-Jet 120 5 speed gearbox uses a concentric slave cylinder unfortunately. Im not sure but Im guessing the 6 speed on the 150 T-jet also uses one youd be better off changing the clutch assembly as well as the concentric slave at same time whilst the gearbox is off.
the GM drive shafts as well. On my Croma 2005 my GM drive chain is GM gearbox GM clutch GM MDF flywheel GM hubs. Ive have had premature failures in the clutch DMF driveshafts springs and wheel bearings. Sadly only the drive shafts failed in the warranty period. I picked up a healthy bill for the clutch pressure plate assembly failure and the associated prudent DMF replacement. Apart from my old fiat
to the new bearing. Note these are mpi Sei and a bravoa one....hopefully interchangable...I did at least If someone wants to knock a guide up with these pics Give it a week and I will hopefully have my build done and more time if its not done before (if its not Custard give me a PM or bump and Ill get on with it ) Cheers Kristian __________________ Punto mk2 Sporting for sale httpwww.fiatforum.comclassifieds...product30120
moves with them as you move it by hand and adjust if necessary and roughly bolt on the linkage to test it before you apply the instant gasket (see pic below of what im on about) otherwise youll put it back together fully and be severely cheesed off that have a wonky gearstick inside that wont go into 12 or reverse... Use lots of cv joint grease in the boots before re-installation MRM-2 from a fiat
Originally Posted by smokeymacpot i dont think i have a socket big enough for the hubnut so i can undo the shocker mounting and have enough space for me to pop that shaft out and the other will come off as i move the box out of the way. i have to do this right as the gearbox wont move far enough away i defo loose oil if lever shafts from the gbox i dont have a clutch alignment tool can i do without
that is the bearing jumping over the groove its worn into the fingers Id start ringing around now for quotes for a new clutch assembly which will be new clutch and bearing of course. Quite a big job so looking at a half days work in a garage but the clutch will be much better feeling afterwards TIP Renew the gearbox oil whilst the gearbox is out __________________ 02 Stilo 1.6 Dynamic 3 door 99 bravo
i think you will find that your clutch mastercylinder is at fault the faulty mastercylinder lets it preasure leak back to the filler the spring assembly on the clutch pedal will then pull the pedal to the floor it can look very strange if you see this happening
when a slave cylinder goes it will leak clutch (brake) fluid out of the end and youll see it pouring onto the top of the gearbox. When a master cylinder goes you might get a fluid leak inside the cabin or when you press the clutch the slave cylinder doesnt move very much. If neither of these are happening then it sounds like either the thrust bearing has failedfailing or the fingers on the pressure
My friend had a clutch pedal assembly fitted by a mechanic on a focus. It came back exactly as you describe yours to be. We bled it ourselves and was then spot on.
I know because its wired and programed into the ABSESP electronic module (Bosch ABS 8 VDC). there is no switch or fuse for it separately. As far as i have studied the schematics and the descriptions of the system there isnt even a single extra wire used only by the Hill holder. The ESP module (electro-hydraulic pump assembly) receives the important information(like bake pedal status and yaw sensor
Heres some pictures. The first two are low-res and show the extent of the sideways slop. As you can imagine this feels rather weird when driving. The third picture is better quality and is an attempt to show the fracture point. The rubber pedal is out of focus at the bottom of the picture. The steering column is the diagonal tube. The operating arm for the master cylinder is just below middle picture. On the enlarged view Ive highlighted the crack where the pedal assembly is supposed to join to a horizontal tube but has broken off near the weld. Attached Thumbnails       Adrian bravo thanked for this post
relies on the pedal getting fully back up so Id try a quick bleed from the clutch slave cylinder Have a look in the Stilo Guides for how to bleed the clutch slave cylinder PS Of course if you drive around with your foot pressing on the clutch then you need to break the habit before it breaks the bank as that will burn out a clutch very quickly __________________ 02 Stilo 1.6 Dynamic 3 door 99 bravo
ECU - I am really interested in tinkering with this myself and have done a lot of reading about it. I cant afford and would be bored with the expensive ready-set-up route so am considering Megasquirt (harder longer more interesting) or Greddy piggyback (still self-tune but less wiring-up required less probability of making a mess but is it less flexible). Im a massive MS convert now I built my own
Ill have a look in the morning as I dont know what punto you have (we have mk1s and a mk2 here) but on the bravos if you are going to wire up a secondary horn under the actual floor carpet in the passenger footwell just under the dash on the bulkhead peel it back and there should be a circular rubber cover for the lhd market (clutch assembly Im guessing) on the other side the sound damping needs to
Originally Posted by jug in that case you need to shortern the cable. Thats what I did yesterday. The cable is wound through the firewall goes to the front turns back behind the bumper and goes back to under the brake pump. That is where the nut and locking nut are located. Ive shortened the cable by some 10-15 turns of the nut and now the clutch disengages somewhere below halfway of the pedals travel
It sounds like classic release bearing noise - you mentioned back a few posts that you hear the noise only when i put the clutch in just before im about to stop. Itll be cheaper to fit a new clutch assembly than strip the old car for its bits. Did you cure the heavy throttle
That sounds like a full-on days work to me depending on how well organised he is. You could get him to put the new clutch assembly from the old car in at the same time if you dont want to invest in a new one. It would be false economy to change the gearbox without changing the clutch....