Originally Posted by Matthewr1990 Im going to become the general unhelpful forum user right now so my apologise. However brakes are pretty bloody severe. And if you need advise from a forum to change them you probably shouldnt. To be fair that is very unhelpful and its obvious youve not done them yourself because if you had youd know the OP is asking how the caliper piston winds back (which varies from car make and so forth) and not how to change the pads which is very much like riding a bicycle OP says hes done this sort of thing before but wants technical advise on specifically the bravo.
Posted by Most Easterly Pandas To be fair that is very unhelpful and its obvious youve not done them yourself because if you had youd know the OP is asking how the caliper piston winds back (which varies from car make and so forth) and not how to change the pads which is very much like riding a bicycle OP says hes done this sort of thing before but wants technical advise on specifically the bravo.
Originally Posted by Kevee Hi I purchased my bravo (07 reg) second hand about 6 months ago now and am loving it. It has now got to the stage where the rear brake pads need replacing. I do not mind doing this sort of thing and have done it in the past. Anyway when I came to do it I could not wind back the piston with my wind back tool no matter how much I tried. I tried both the left threaded tool and
With the risk of being flamed I am looking to change the disks and pads all round on the car are the pistons threaded or is there a keyway on the piston or do I have to invest in a wind back tool I have been shocked at just how bad the bravo brakes are engineered. I have had 2 callipers replaced under warranty due to them ceasing the second time the dealer even said it was due to the salt on the roads.
some wood to not damage piston or caliper and a G clamp to wind it back in Col - i still havnt got to scrappy for you yet but i will get there once my cinqs back on the road for you
So this is how the car looks now not much different just dirty But I have spent a bit over the past 3 months on her KYB Shocks all around New LUK clutch New windscreen New mats Mini service for the winter fiat headlight protectors Also painted some interior plastic with Rover Stone Grey but not sure about them as they dont go very well with the light grey interior plastics. I also tried Peugeot Graphite
for long stints. I went from London to Salerno and back ( just past amalfipositano) in my 150 MJET. A absolute pleasure comfortable economical averaged about 50mpg(with 4 people and full boot) 80mph cruise control on quiet and when i needed to hammer it there was plenty of pull. Those winding roads was a ok in mine but there was a lot of weight in the car so i let that pass and would say the bravo
You might look in the Stilo section for a recent thread on brakes . Might help you decide on your choice I got new discs from buypartsby but the carriage could be expensive to ROI. There is an old thread in bravo section re winding back the rear calipers to fit pads. Worth a good read.
Yes you do need a wind-back tool for winding back the rear calipers. They wind back clockwise on the right-hand side and anti-clockwise on the left. The fronts dont need any special tools from what I can tell but you will need to deal with brake pad wear sensors (on the left-hand front according to my workshop manual.). I havent actually worked on my front brakes so I have no personal experience. Mintex
Originally Posted by goodgirl156 the last 3 callipers i have had the pleasure of working on..... the pistons would not move. not at all. you couldnt remove them to put new seals and clean them up in the first place i know you have more experience than me jug but im just going on my own experience Have worked on a few 20v rear calipers. They can be prone to sticking. Using a proper tool to wind them
Originally Posted by SkinzCinqSporting Very nice maybe some light tints on the windows and then id start thinking about some nice brakes to show off behind the claws Cheers yeh tints next . You can just about see them in the pic but I already have drilled and grooved discs on the front and the back with OMP racing pads (front) green stuff pads (rear). So I guess painting the calipers some colour yeh
I changed the rear lines on my Marea without rear brake compensator (which I think mk1 has) readymade copper pipes and it would have taken about two hours if I had the routine and tools ready (namely torch and mini boltcutters). Right side is over the tank and needs spaghettinhands to do properly. Not sure about front as there is little room around the abs unit to work with (and 5pot underhood generally).
Originally Posted by Neverth I usually open the rears and cleanlubricate the sliders and wind the calipers back a bit then let the calipers click themselves to proper place. Same for front sliders. Pour some antifreeze inside the old cables oil only does bad things to the inside coating thanks Neverth all makes perfect sense I like the antifreeze lube idea rather than oil is that like engine coolant or an anti-seize lubricant Charlie
calipers have to come off on front and rear. 2 bolts on each one and theyre off... Spring clip on the fronts so a good pair of pliers is needed.. Front pistons can be pushed back to get the new pads in but youll need the specific wind back tool for the rears.