if you examine the way the cylinder pushes against the clutch fork you can see how the piston could be pulled sideways if it had a small amount of play and was to catch on the fork. this is what happens when it fails which is why it goes from no leak to big leak in one press of the clutch pedal. then you only have a few pumps of the pedal until you lose enough brake fluid to get air in the hydraulic
leaks and fluid loss are the best way to check after that you should bleed the slave cylinder to see if it improves things. you can also ask someone to pump your clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder to make sure it is moving the clutch fork as expected. if it is misaligned or loose it may not push far enough. if you still get no joy its clutch change time.
UPDATE Just finished replacing the clutch slave cylinder and apart from me doing it myself i.e two ppl to pump the clutch wasnt diffecult at all took me just over a hour or so to do it. Bit of a squeeze and does mark your wrists. Note for other other ppl would recommend wearing gloves for this one weather latex or other product.
if you want something doing properly you have to do it yourself. get a bleed kit on the cylinders bleed nipple loosen the nipple and then pump the clutch a few times making sure the brake fluid in the reservoir does not drop below min. examine the bleed kit pipe to ensure there is no bubbles (if there are keep pumping the pedal) and then tighten the bleed nipple and reomve the bleed kit. top up the reservoir and job done.
Originally Posted by jug if you want something doing properly you have to do it yourself. Do you know I said exactly the same thing to my folks last night after I picked the car up. Originally Posted by jug get a bleed kit on the cylinders bleed nipple loosen the nipple and then pump the clutch a few times making sure the brake fluid in the reservoir does not drop below min. examine the bleed kit pipe
Originally Posted by Bravo16VSpoonz cheers rigby well we already bled it....and runs fine for some weird reason anyway will i need to bleed it again with the new slave Yea you will as when you first plum it all back up and press the clutch pedal it will be full of air i had to pump the pedal for quite awhile untill to felt good and a constant flow of fluid was coming out of the nipple.
Not too difficult really. Its situated underneath where the battery is. You only need to take the battery out of the way to get better access. Its a two person job really just so someone can pump the clutch while the other can drain the fluid. The cylinder itself is only fastened with two bolts so once drained and disconnected really simple to whip out and put the new one in. Then just a case of putting
Originally Posted by JoskeJTD What did you buy Any pics The seal and everything should be already on the slave cylinder all you need do is fit it and bleed the fluid through. Job done. No need to fit seals etc. Did you buy the seal kit part or did you buy the whole slave cylinder Its ok I got it sorted I bought the whole cylinder. It has gone on but when I went to bleed it I bought the tube put on
Hi Thanks for getting back so quick - I really appreciate you help. I checked to see if there was a leak from the clutch slave and I couldnt find one. If I could just check my understanding - I dont think it can be the clutch slave as they are on a different circuit (just sharing the same reservoir) am I right Also Im not loosing any brake fluid so that - in my understanding - puts a leak out of the
JOSKEJTD Anyway a common fault on the Bravo is the Brake slave cylinder leaking. It can be found on top of the gearbox. If you look underneath your battery tray onto the gearbox youll see something like this.... Please this is someones life here that could be lost the part you are calling a brake slave cylinder is the clutch slave nothing to do with brakes at all apart from the fact it shares the same
Originally Posted by Thrisey JOSKEJTD Anyway a common fault on the Bravo is the Brake slave cylinder leaking. It can be found on top of the gearbox. If you look underneath your battery tray onto the gearbox youll see something like this.... Please this is someones life here that could be lost the part you are calling a brake slave cylinder is the clutch slave nothing to do with brakes at all apart
Sorry to hear about your problems. If its any consolation I have just had to replace the following on my 1996 fiat brava 1.4 S - starter motor clutch and slave cylinder (2nd time in a year -new parts - bloody cowboy mechanics) petrol pump ECU battery 2 front shocks front tyres back brakes. So you are not the only one havin bad luck
You have a hydraulic clutch so forget all about cables and adjusters because you havent got any. Some other things to consider. If the clutch bites very low then youre not getting sufficient movement to disengage the clutch. Most common problems are slave cylinder clapped. slave cylinder Are there any signs of hydraulic fluid on top of the clutch coming from the slave cylinder Do you get air present
Originally Posted by Xen have you tried to pump the clutch I know with eezebleed you shouldnt have to (i have one too) but if you pump the clutch youll put a lot more pressure on the system and shift whats blocking it aswell as emptying the old fluid from the cylinder chamber to ensure no old fluid remains. Yes Ive tried pumping the clutch aswell but still no sign of any fluid coming out of the slave
Are you pumping it with the eezibleed connected and slave cylinder bleeding when the master cylinders dry it can be a pain in the backside to get fluid to start flowing into it and having the eezibleed applying external pressure can solve the problem. obviously you need to have the slave bleeding to give the air somewhere to move to.
Originally Posted by Xen Are you pumping it with the eezibleed connected and slave cylinder bleeding when the master cylinders dry it can be a pain in the backside to get fluid to start flowing into it and having the eezibleed applying external pressure can solve the problem. obviously you need to have the slave bleeding to give the air somewhere to move to. Yes while I was pumping the pedal the eezibleed
Originally Posted by Bravonige Dont want to sound like a complete novice but can you please tell me where the clutch switch is the only clutch switch i have heard of on any car is an electric switch used to prevent the car starting unless you press the clutch pedal. your car doesnt have one of them and even if it did it couldnt be the cause of your noise. your clutch doesnt use a cable it is hydraulic.
You need to be very careful how you go about bleeding the slave cylinder. Did u prime the cylinder with fresh fluid before fitting And how exactly are you bleeding it After being primed it should only take around 5 pumps of the clutch pedal do bleed out the remainder of the air in the system. If you are still having trouble after this stage it may be nessasary to loosen the bleed nipple and repeatedly
it happend 2 my bravait was the slave cylinder weaping.its by the gearbox a little out of site.check it with a torch as some1 pumps the peedle.dont worry about your brakesthe clutch pipe is the top 1 on the master cylinderas you loose the fluid it will drop below the hight of the top pipe.so you only loose the clutch not the brakes as well.the real pisser comes if you have a brake fluid pipe go.then you loose the clutch and brakes.get the greese out boys slap it on.
Originally Posted by fiat_-_bravo Call me stupid if Im wrong but whether the pump is electronic or mechanical don it still do same job i.e. pump the fluid around the power steering circuit. stupid there is no pump on electronic steering there is an electric motor. so obviously there is no need for any fluid. the dealers are not telling fibs they no longer stock the fluid since no current models use
your clutch is not disengaging. ask an assistant to pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder on top of the egabrox. if it is moving and there is no sign of a leak then your problem is the clutch. if it is not moving then the clutch hydraulics are the problem either the slave cylinder or master cylinder (usually slave).
Could you pump the pedal up sounds like it may have air in system look at Fluid resovoir 1st is it lowit is a duel resovoir so if it is does not mean clutch it leaking could be wheel cylinders as well but with the clutch having the higher pipe position it shows 1st however seems more likely to be clutch [usual problem with em] have a look at the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox pull the rubber
Had a good friend of mine have a very quick look yesterday looks like some fluidoil on the slave cylinder hopefully it is just a new slave cylinder jobby. Does the clutch have its own fluid resevoir The brake fluid is beyond max I nipped to a garage a few month ago and asked how much to top up my fluid and he didnt charge me. I couldnt pump the pedal up no it came to the top on its own. Yesterday and
Originally Posted by bridges As far as I am aware the clutch and brake system are the same. The clutch mechanism which is hydraulic is fed from the brake fluid reservoir I would check this first to make sure it is at the correct level. If it is not fill it up. Also check the slave cylinder. It sits under the battery tray which you might need to remove to see it properly. This is a little piston which
Welcome to the foum Have you taken a look at the clutch slave cylinder ontop of the gearbox for leaking clutch fliud Having to pump the clutch would point towards a leak its easy and cheap to change. Its under the battery tray though P I have highlighted the clutch release arm and slave cylinder here.
Originally Posted by kaosNW i think i need to reprogram the blue key but to do this i need 2 blue keys dont I so i was wondering do i get the red key copied and borrow my friends blue punto key and put the punto code on the copy to make a new blue key or do i get my blue key copied and put my friends code on that one (do i need to use my friends code or can i do a straight clone of my blue one) yes
Originally Posted by jug yes the punto code will give you a new blue key. use your red key to get it cut. also use the existing blue keys code to make a new blue key but again use the red key ot have it cut so that fits the door locks. next job is removing your ignition barrel and grinding the tumblers down to fit your red key (put red key in barrel then grind off all protruding tumblers so they are flush with barrel). then refit the modifed ignition swithc barrel. now your red key and both the blue keys will open all the doors and start the engine. good as new. is it only powerloss or also a misfire does it still rev as highly as before check brake fluid level if its dropped check on top of gearbox for a wet patch. a slave cylinder leak is common but easily fixed. 1. you dont need an ecu 2. TB problems are very common on the 1.2. try replacing it. 3. dont assume your timing belt is a problem. it needs replacing every 70k so do it if it needs it. if the timing belt has slipped it could explain your power loss. so would a head gaskt leak also common on the 1.2 another option is the HT leads causing a misfire again common on the 1.2. id check for all these things. Thanks for all that mate Its powerloss and missfiring aswell and it seems to be revving just as it used to its weird how the clutch started sticking and being stiff around the same time as the missfirepowerloss but the clutch has done this before and stopped after being pumped also ive been told its most likely the throttle body or timing belt slipped but my mate said you need a special fiat tool to check the t belt is there any way around this
Originally Posted by bajeknight Dont have a brake bleed kit. I pumped the brakes myself and got something to hold the the clutch pedal in place while I went and loosen and retighten the nipple. This was done several times. Interestingly I changed the slave cylinder on the wifes car on Monday evening. I found it much more efficient when bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to pump the clutch instead
Main point is you know its history - how many people can say that when they come to buy a replacement car Thats the reason I chose to keep the tipo and replace the front damperssprings rear damperssprings rear arm pivots front lower arms front discs and calipers bias valve and hydraulic pipes clutch clutch master cylinder clutch slave cylinder thermostat water pump exhaust system and alloys.. phew
Hello without getting too technical it could be that the master cylinder is actually getting stuck and pumping again releases it or else its seals have gone. I assume the brake fluid reservoir is full and that they have actually bled the system properly you will need to observe the master and slave cylinder to see whats going on. Surely if they had test driven the car properly around a built up area
to get fluid back into the cylinder you need a brake bleed kit with a one way valve. it sticks on the slave cylinder bleed screw then you pump the clutch. try that.
you need to pressurise the brake fluid reservoir to force fluid in to the master cylinder. if youre careful and you have strong lungs you can do this with your mouth while an assistant pumps the pedal and at the same time have a brake bleed kit on the slave cylinder bleed nipple. laugh all you want the mouth method works ive used it more than once.
my clutch pedal gets stiff can feel in pedal like it catching on something somewhere dont do it all time and if pump pedal it goes away. changed master cylinder it was alright for a week. pedal getting stuck when it about an inch from floor can lift it back up clutch fork looks rusty seemed to be this getting stuck sprayed wd-40 on it worked but didnt last long tried copper anti-seize spray clutch
yes it is on top of the gearbox. best way to find it is to look under the battery tray. youll see the wet patch more than likely. if you have an assistant pump the clutch pedal youll see the slave cylinder moving on top of the gearbox. removing the battery and then the battery tray greatly improves access however it is not neccessary.
hi everyone. ive got a bravo 1.6 and have just started having intermit. problem when trying to get into first and second.wont go in so have to pump clutch loads until i can force it in and when does go it grinds BAD Thought clutch was going but have been advised i need a new clutch slave cylinder but cant under stand why its not all the time dont know if any help 
Check the hydraulic fluid reservoir first. If its full enough then pump the clutch with your foot lots and lots and see if that makes it work. If the clutch needs bleeding this can temporarily clear the hydraulics. If that fails then check under the car to see if its leaking fluid. Follow the trail back into the engine if it is. Failing this theres alot of posts on here about clutch slave cylinders that are probably worth a read...
Hi Check the colour of the fluid any sign of blackness is a sign of the seals breaking up (usually slave cylinder gives more trouble than master cylinder...pop off the rubber boot on the slave for any signs of leak). In past have had a strange situation where the slave seals were knackered but the boot kept the oil in so fluid loss was minimal...(on a brava that was though). What happens if you pump