it will be at the bottom of the engine drivers side (if you are UK) near the oil filter and oil pressure switch. Its a plastic coated sensor pointing towards a groved ring. Doubt its your problem though. Kristian
Im afraid Ill have to disagree about taking the shafts out. I find it much easier to take the shafts out of the gearbox than split them. Yes you have to drain the gearbox oil but thats dead simple 8mm allen key needed the plug is at the bottom at the back of the gearbox. Drain into old oil container with hole cut in it save and re-use. You dont need to bleed the hydraulics unless the slave cylinder has come adrift. Just undo the two bolts holding it to the gearbox and tie out of the way
Normally undo the passenger side hub nut only. Undo and remove bottom pinch bolt on suspension and lever down with very long bar. Sometimes need hammer assistance. Its true about the retaining clips on the shafts but if you use a chisel to release them a fraction then reposition the chisel and give a really hard whack they normally pop right out. I find the driveshaft cups get in the way when handling the gearbox with them removed its pretty easy.
moves with them as you move it by hand and adjust if necessary and roughly bolt on the linkage to test it before you apply the instant gasket (see pic below of what im on about) otherwise youll put it back together fully and be severely cheesed off that have a wonky gearstick inside that wont go into 12 or reverse... Use lots of cv joint grease in the boots before re-installation MRM-2 from a fiat
Originally Posted by smokeymacpot i dont think i have a socket big enough for the hubnut so i can undo the shocker mounting and have enough space for me to pop that shaft out and the other will come off as i move the box out of the way. i have to do this right as the gearbox wont move far enough away i defo loose oil if lever shafts from the gbox i dont have a clutch alignment tool can i do without
in line with the connecting rods) mount it on the car and check that it works. Make sure it is turning in the right direction. If it works screw the frame into place and put the plastic motor cover back on or improvise your own. Then put the scuttle panel back on. Reattach the wipers before tightening them down align them with the alignment marks on the windscreen. (Srry crappy pic again) On my brava
Originally Posted by rallycinq I think its 34mm. Undo the inner gaiter remove the top bolt from the upright loosen the bottom bolt. You should now be able to get the shaft out of the inner cup. Assuming dry inner joint. That will allow you to get the whole shaft out and do the CV joint on the bench. Cheers SPD im doing the cv joint now on a sceicento sporting iv managed to get it off but i cant seen
have to unbolt this as well - the wretched thing wont budge and my hairs already covered in spilt ATF as it is I cant drop the engine right down as the intermediate drive-shaft flange fouls on the front crossmember and Im certainly NOT going to try and take that out - I havent the strength or the time-tax runs out on the 30th Come on somebody SOMEONE must have done alternator removal on a diesel brava
&163150 i used to charge &16350 for any car and i thought that was expensive. its very easy to do yourself. rather than write it out again heres one of my previous efforts reposted to fit rear springs you jack car up to just before the point where the rear wheel is lifted into the air take nut off on bottom of shock jack car up higher until shock is clear of trailing arm slot old spring off swap the
to fit rear springs you jack car up to just before the point where the rear wheel is lifted into the air take nut off on bottom of shock jack car up higher until shock is clear of trailing arm slot old spring off swap the rubber bit onto the new spring slot new spring into position slowly lower car until shock is back in position bolt shock back onto trailing arm you can do both rear springs very quickly
Originally Posted by flying clutchman The oil seeping is a giveaway. Its most likely that the input shaft bearing has failed in the gearbox. Once the gearbox is out its not too bad a job to repair. OR Could be drive shaft oil seals weeping it is actually gearbox oil (Smell it it is quite punget) Could be Crankshaft main oil seal running down the block. Could be Sump gasket cork seal at crankshaft.
My 1.4 has done this it sounds like a large drill motor so no compression when turning. the first time was after a head change and I did an ECU reset battery off 45 mins battery on and it worked the second time I have yet to bottom out the reason as it was combined with rounding of cam shaft lobes and still havent got it sorted - sorry not much help unless remedy one ECU reset works. Have you tried
The wiper shaft runs through a tube with a metal bush at the bottom the tube fills with water and crud and the shafts goes rusty seizing into the tubebush you can often get it working again by simply stripping it all down and giving it a good clean out. HOT HGT thanked for this post
Originally Posted by jimmyybob The wiper shaft runs through a tube with a metal bush at the bottom the tube fills with water and crud and the shafts goes rusty seizing into the tubebush you can often get it working again by simply stripping it all down and giving it a good clean out. NICE 1 cheers chap i will give it ago see what happens
i had this with my 1.4s peddle sticks in place and engine redlines from cold - nice. Traced it to the throttle cable cam rusted up just pop the cable ofg remove the 2 or 3 bolts holding the bracket and cam and take it off. pop the cap off the pivot shaft and unclip the circlip. draw off the cam and clean all the rust and crud off the bore and the shaft. Give it a good greasing and reassemble and marvel
Originally Posted by rema-d 1) have taken the battery out now. and it will go in every gear ok.. so does that mean my gearbox is fine unless your engine is running this test is meaningless. Originally Posted by rema-d 2)with the battery still out when i put my foot on the clutch theres like a popping banging noise coming from it and when i last tried to get it going i would touch the clutch and there
If the sump plug isnt closed its right at the bottom right in the middle and you should be able to see oil around it or dripping directly onto the driveway. Same if its the filter but I still think these are the other side of the sump from the driveshaft If its dripping onto the driveshaft its much more wide open as to where its coming from (one of the oil seals could be loose further up in the engine).
pretty easy if you know what your doign but time consuming drive shafts out the box take off selectors and unplug clutch ect. mounts un done (support engine with a stand and box on a jack) undo the bolts to the block undo starter make sure the 10mm stone guard bolt is off at the bottom take it off undo clutch put new one on (aligned) and reverse above. pretty sure ive missed alot out but its not that hard if ur mechanically minded where in the contry are you
how is the driveshaft attatched at the box end in a cinq you can pull it out to detatch it.. is it more compliated in the bravo on a cinq you unbolt the bottom of the strut (or remove completly depending on what ur doing) and then you tilt the hub all the way to one side and you can pop the drive shaft out at the gear box end as its literly just resting in the slot not physicaly attatched in anyway.
Nice one H good luck with the seperation Il keep you informed of the transplant I go this weekend to collect the beast from Glouscter. its a 97 coupe front end damage to the drivers side. Damage- Headlight knackered bonnet knackered oil cooler and engine coolant header tank knackered the guy has put a new bottom arm on it and has a new bumper for me I am using the engine gear box and hopefully shafts
Easiest job ever. Remove bottom bolt. 19mm nylock nut and captive bolt. Use smooth shaft to drift bolt out of the strut. Pull out plastic plug out of subframe (from inside wheel arch). Deep inside you will see a 15mm bolt head. The nut is captive within the subframe. Be very careful that you dont drop the bolt down into the subframe when removing. Replacement is reverse of removal.
Originally Posted by banee2 Disaster..... A bit of the speedo sensor manage to break off on removal and is in the transmision housing. Anybody got any ideas on how to get it out If I leave it in there it will probably cause the gears to jump or will they just break it up.... errr iirc the speedo sensore bolts directly above the differential unit or does it run off the gears them selves... damn it i
Originally Posted by Yoshi2u YES I can be my own worst enemy I just popped round with my friend and the guy said it is bad news he is more than sure its the turbo as he couldnt find any problems with the pipes an hoses But Im not sure how much i trust there competence as he said he didnt want to cost me money by taking it apart to check So I think I need a second opinion maybe some one with
hi it could be your wish bone or your drive shaft jack the car and try and move your wheel by pushing on top and bottom in and out to see if you have nocking
not holding out much hope for your engine. The Lampredi engine is a non-safe engine so the valves often hit the pistons and bend when the cam belt brakes. Of course if you have a FIRE then you are sweet with a broken cam belt and they are really easy to replace. If you have the OHV engine then you wont have a cam belt. Attached Thumbnails   __________________ Current 1987 Uno (1580cc) 1997 brava