maybe as simple as a break in the ciruit that runs on the window itself you know the black lines but nearer the start to cause all them to fail see if you get a circuit from one end to the other you get the stuff that you paint on your windows to complete the ciruit again ( wish i had done that before i got the tints fitted )
the rear window might be caused by the contacts between the boot and the cill overheating and melting as happened my car as for the headlight washer i havent had the misfortune for that to break (although its about the only thing that hasnt) a scrapyard would be the place to go for one of those. id imagine the fiat Marea uses the same pump as headlight washers are more common on mareas. Met Cognac 99 brava 100 HSX
result Met Cognac 99 brava 100 HSX
nope but you could disconnect the pipe from the resevoir and use compressor to unblock it unlikely that its blocked though. Met Cognac 99 brava 100 HSX
After posting that last night I was out in the car today and just pressed the rear window was stalk for a little while and whatever blockage there was or airlock in there cleared and its working again Sorted D Scorg 02 Stilo Dynamic 1.6 Sky Blue 01 brava 80SX Ink Black
Problems intermitently coming and going now. And definetly not a blocked pipe in the boot. So I had a look about the car wondering where I could stick the autochanger cabling when I came to bringing the rear seats down and opening up the bench when I spotted drops of water all along the bit between the seat and where the boot starts from left to right. looks like ive got a faulty rear washer hose and its escaping into the cabin at that point now [(] Scorg 02 Stilo Dynamic 1.6 Sky Blue 01 brava 80SX Ink Black
Strange. Easy enough to fix though. fiat brava 1.6 HSX fiat Uno 1.1 ieS.
I thought that a HLX already ready have electric rear windows Anyway rear window regulators are completey different from front ones.
its a hsx not hlx 99 brava 100 HSX with not enough mods
oh no its a real hassle when this happens. you can replace the entire mechanism i believe haynes shows you how to do it. in theory its a simple matter of removing a few bolts but in reality its difficult to get the mechanism off once the bolts are removed. a scrapyard mechanism wont cost much but make sure you use some silicone spray on the rubber runners to stop it happening again. all windows should
Originally Posted by jug make sure you use some silicone spray on the rubber runners to stop it happening again. all windows should be lubes every year. DO NOT use any oil based lubricant only silicone spray (with ptfe if possible) Jug when you say rubber runners where exactly do you mean Inside the panel or where the window glass touches to the door Because i have a small problem when trying to close (They are trying hard ). Any pics will be appreciated
This is very strange because as you say the bravo windows are bonded. Does the window have play in it if you push against it Are you sure that the noise is the window Could it be something between the interior lining and quarter panel. or from the trim behind the window covering the C pillar If there is nothing obvious then it might be an idea to remove the rear trim panel from below the window to investigate...
forgot to mention iv already had the interior quarter panel out and theres nothing inside that could be making the noise. if i stand half in and half out of the front door and put pressure on the window i can push the window in and it thuds then if i push out it does it again...i was thinking maybe theres some play in the window but im a little unsure how to sort this out cheers for the reply
Check the wiring as it feeds from the body to the hatch. You will need to peel back the rubber grommit to expose the wires. Occasionally these get pinched when the hatch closes & the wires get broken or cut through. Maybe that is what caused the short in the first place to blow your fuse. Have not needed to check my Bravo but have just had to repair the whole bumdle on my daughters corsa.
you will have one it will just be clogged up. has your wiper been removed or do you have the rear wipe
this is very common. the problem is a small black plastic part that joins 2 water pipes. this plastic part is located in the engine bay. at the back right of the engine bay (when looking in it) there is a black plastic cover on the fuse box. behind this there is a rubber sealing strip that goes all the way across the engine bay. lift up the rubber sealing stip behind the fusebox and look for a thin
hmm thats strange when my pipe fell out if just filled the boot with water. at first i thought WTF is going on then a drip hit me on the head from the tailgate and i though aha although the black bit im talking about in the engine bay is actually a pressure sensitive valve its designed to allow water out in the event of a blockage. unfortunately the valve always blocks often causing water to enter the fusebox when the rear wash is used. haha i love fiats maybe my boot got wet because i removed this valve
you guys have totally lost me where should the water squirt from because i dont have the little black bit with the 2 little holes in that i normally unblock with a needle anywhere on the rear end of the car normally they are above the rear window pointing down but i have nothing at all there except the wiper and when the wiper stalk is pushed forward or back it squirts the front window either way
1) for some reason when i put my hand break on the light that lights up the sign on the dashboard will not light up does n e 1 know what this could be Could be plain and simple the bulb gone if it never lights up. If it does light up on self test at start up then it could be the electrical contacts to the handbrake switch located just below the handbrake lever 2) when i switch on the rear window wiper
The rear wiper motors are notoriously poor. Your motor may well be broken. If you do a forum search youll find quite a few posts from people with broken rear wipers.
The rear wiper is hardly worn compared to the front wiper motor and the rear wiper is permanently on intermittent too so it hardly gets worked at all and suffers more from a lack of use. Its a case of use it or lose it. Mines done 100k miles of everyday motoring and is still working
Isnt the first one got that pipe fixed when I got the car and the 2nd one the wipers working fine just getting no spray at the moment. Ive had it happen before it would be intermittently working and failing to spray Scorg 02 Stilo Dynamic 1.6 Sky Blue 01 brava 80SX (and capable of 47mpg D ) Ink Black June 6th 1944 You will not be forgotten
dont think there is any filters at least none that I know of. Im off out to double check the car in a moment anyway for water level and to double check it aint leeking in the boot im pretty sure it isnt but I have to be sure Scorg 02 Stilo Dynamic 1.6 Sky Blue 01 brava 80SX (and capable of 47mpg D ) Ink Black June 6th 1944 You will not be forgotten
and it just so happens to be working fine today god damn it [(] Scorg 02 Stilo Dynamic 1.6 Sky Blue 01 brava 80SX (and capable of 47mpg D ) Ink Black June 6th 1944 You will not be forgotten
Ok took the car on the round trip to manchester and back and noticed that the rear wiper motor started ticking away at around the 4 hour mark on both the going and coming back parts of the trip now besides it being odd that its near identical timing of the ticking I found that the spray would become iratic during this time of ticking motor where it would stop start stop start (the spray not the wiper) when being sprayed. So could my problem then be down to a dying wiper motor then (and the car aint even 3 years old yet) although after checking the bravo guide ill give the contacts a clean to be on the safe side. Scorg 02 Stilo Dynamic 1.6 Sky Blue 01 brava 80SX (and capable of 47mpg D ) Ink Black June 6th 1944 You will not be forgotten
sorry i cant help.
If only a couple of lines are not working then that sounds like they are snapped somewhere. Check them for signs of breakage not a lot you can do without replacing the rear window or buying a stick on heater.
I had this in a Rover - you can by liquid silver contact repair paint from eg. Maplin ( www.maplin.co.uk ) - it comes in a small glass container and you use it like paint - make sure you shake it well or it wont work. Just find whereabouts the heater line has a break in it and repaint it in Simple when you have the right kit HTH Stuart
Oh I also had it in a Volvo - someone broke the rear window and claimed on the insurance