has to be a hgt i belive a friend had the same problem and he had to use a hgt im unsure if all the disk brake stuff are a straight swap onto a arm set up for drums (i imagine you need a backing plate ect).
Originally Posted by bluejohn125 Hi yes I fitted Excel-Gs all round to my brava a few years ago they are good value and feel slightly firm or sporty (at least when you first fit them you notice). Im happy with them although I like trawling ebay to see if there are any bargain Sachs or Boge units as they are very good too. The ordinary bravas Bravos and Mareas all seem to take the same shocks unless
As the procedure is much the same on either car (Puntos wear out more often though) Remove centre cap for the hub nut and loosen nut (32mm) Jack the car remove wheel and remove all brake components Remove the hub (carefully) the drum backing plate handbrake cable and the brake hoses and pipes on the arm in question. Try to plug up the brake fluid as if let run dry it will ruin the master cylinder (which
either rubber bush between subframe and body or rear arm pivot bush. Does the wheel sit straight or at an angle
There is not much to make noise in there The shocks The TA bearings The brake balancer (not it as it is behind a spring sound is all wrong for that) The anti-rollbar is bolted straight to the arms and doesnt touch the subframe or body so it shouldnn make noise. Sure the spring isnt broken and rubbing altough its pretty imposible as it has nothing to hit. I had hard time with marea when the original
My experience with a brava (2001) is that KYB Excel gas dampers are quite firm but not excessive. Nearly all front end noises (especially clunking over bumps) are due to worn front wishbone bushes - also on Tipos and I guess Puntos. On my car I have changed these also drop links track rods track rod ends - all over time. Very common areas for wear and noises.... On my Tipo (1995) a lot of crashing
Originally Posted by Bebyko Thanks peter ive specified in the first post i think that my rear trailing arms are in good condition the wheels arent inclined all good there. Dont think but be sure. I changed the rear trailingarm bearings on our 2000 fiat Palio ( same suspension set-up) a few months ago I was amazed how bad the right side bearings were in fact one of the bearings was completely gone .... Btw you couldnt move the wheel by hand....
If its one thing i hate the most its not giving a car problem a proper diagnostic fiats are so complex that my problems could be caused by a lot of things i cant just start trowing parts at this car i need to make sure 100% that the parts im changing are the ones causing the problems and im saying that cause im a god damn student and as you can imagine i dont have lots of pennies in my pocket i came
Im contemplating doing the same with my 1.6 Multipla. I found a rear suspension arm bush kit for about &16320 on shop4parts. But not sure if Ill be able to get the old bushes out in situ. Also read that its best to renew both sides at once as otherwise you will notice uneven cornering as one bush is new & tight and the other old & sloppy. I believe the Multi shares many parts parts with the Bravobrava
Originally Posted by jug only hard part is getting the nut off the top of each strut make life easy on yourself and have the top nut loosened on both struts before you start work. Oil all bolts well before you start work. rears are easiest. Shouldnt require spring compressors. Fronts - as Jug says loosen the top nut before starting. You will need to drift out the bolts holding the strut to the hub carrier - a flat ended cold chissel is ideal. Also while you have the brakes and strut out the way - might be an idea to replace the lower arms as the outer ball joint isnt renound for lasting very long on mid-sized fiats .
Originally Posted by Hellcat Oil all bolts well before you start work. rears are easiest. Shouldnt require spring compressors. Fronts - as Jug says loosen the top nut before starting. You will need to drift out the bolts holding the strut to the hub carrier - a flat ended cold chissel is ideal. Also while you have the brakes and strut out the way - might be an idea to replace the lower arms as the outer ball joint isnt renound for lasting very long on mid-sized fiats . had the offside ball joint replaced recently but will bear it in mind. cal
its not possible and even if it was it wouldnt do you any good. the mounting points are different at top of struts lengths are different front and rear hubs wont connect to shocks on front shocks wont connect to arms on rear it would be more difficult than a coupe brake conversion. get springs for your car and if you still arent satisfied then get some gas shocks too. personally i think a set of lowering
Originally Posted by bravotony hi discoverd big squeek is coming from front drivers and little squeek at back drivers can anyone tell if i can change just the bushes and if so which ones how much are the bushes and how do you do it. if i can change just the bushes which ones on front and which on back. if i cant change just bushes what do i need to change cheers tony Do you get any clunking noises You would tend to replace the Anti-roll bar bushes on the front as they can squeak however worn rubbers on the swing arms and drop links too can cause squeaks. I cant tell you which to replace without experiencing it for myself. So change the cheapest first. The rear bushes well they dont technically exist. But there is a bush on the swing arms that can perish. If you goto www.shop4parts.co.uk Select fiat BravoSteering & suspensionBushes youll find what you need. All are Genuine or OEM parts.
&163150 i used to charge &16350 for any car and i thought that was expensive. its very easy to do yourself. rather than write it out again heres one of my previous efforts reposted to fit rear springs you jack car up to just before the point where the rear wheel is lifted into the air take nut off on bottom of shock jack car up higher until shock is clear of trailing arm slot old spring off swap the
to fit rear springs you jack car up to just before the point where the rear wheel is lifted into the air take nut off on bottom of shock jack car up higher until shock is clear of trailing arm slot old spring off swap the rubber bit onto the new spring slot new spring into position slowly lower car until shock is back in position bolt shock back onto trailing arm you can do both rear springs very quickly
Ha Ive found one on e-bay brava Bravo Marea rear suspension arm Repair Kit And out of e-bay in the UK SW Propshafts Ltd.
ive converted a few cars to rear discs. its never hard. the easiest way to do it to remove the whole lot from the donor car and leave it assembled ready to fit onto your car. then all you have to worry about is changing over the rear sections of the handbrake cable and connecting your copper brake lines onto the new flexihoses everything else will be a direct fit and bolts into place. when i say the
Youve done the main stuff but Id put a bolt in cage in. Spring rates - stiff 130 Nmm rear similar on the front Lack of good quality dampers for this platform I have seen pro-flex fitted to coupe rally cars. I have AST fronts are simple McPherson as you know not too hard to spec. rear suspension is the issue non adjustable trailing arms are very heavy and a pain for a track car with toe in and no neg
Originally Posted by littlepip17 did you know that on the coupe 20vt the rear brakes are actually shut off completely when the car reaches a certain distance from the ground it means when bleeding breaks on them we have to articulate the bias valve or do it on a four post lift just shows how little they do that is in order to avoid them locking do you mean when the car is still level or when the rear
Originally Posted by bridges do you mean when the car is still level or when the rear suspension trailing arms are at full drop Agree with you totally rear discs and painted calipers do look trailing arms full extension well nearly anyway the load limiting valve does not just apply more presure it comes to a point were it shuts them but when you see the sise of 20vt front brakes its understandable they will stand on there nose
Thought I might have to do that with the radiator hose no problem We tried to get the air box out of the car yesterday and gave up... are there any methods Just checked my cars MOT history and its quite clearly been abused constant failures etc. Originally Posted by 072008 Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate Front Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick (3.5.1f) rear both Shock absorber has a serious
nice one jug someone mentioned that it might be the rear bush on the lower suspension arm catching on the subframe
Best to get in in pronto. You can be charged with driving a vehicle unfit for use on the roads. A MOT is not proof that its roadworthy. Sounds like it could be heavily worn suspension bushes. Maybe even failed rear trailing arm bearings.
Glad it passed mine passed earlier this week also (five days after it originally went in - one lambda sensor broken and magically fixed one downpipe and one rear suspension arm later) so good new all round then
Hi steve you maybe arent too far away from me welcome to come and have a look alternatively I am racing at mallory park near Hinckley on Sunday if you want to have a look then. Regarding the Pectel the reason I ask is G and G motorsport who maps mine are highly involved with PectelPI and Phil who runs it is the most honest and direct operator I know - trusted 100%. Bit of a way though in Horncastle
I bought a multipla 110 jtd in may Is a 2001 model elx so is a good spec first diesel fiat engines are really good and troublefree if well looked after but multipla have problems like every other car... I had to replace many parts like brakes cambelt water pump filters and even fuel pumps...i have covered 6000 miles in it since may and car has never broke down on me and is a really confy car and the
Thanks for the replys. Its not the rear subrame both of whichs front mountings have now been modded to take the brava replacements as detailed in other pages of this site. I first did one side about a 18 months ago and it hasnt given problems since so it seems an ok repair. Track rod ends are also fine. All I can think is either - The new wishbones which were surprisingly cheap have such rock hard