ignore all inputs once activated as if the person trying to rob you took the key away from you at gun point.The only way to stop this is by turning on the ignition and waiting it out.You can deactivate this feature via CARKEY Memory. Your remote key functions as follows Press button 3 briefly Trunk lid opens. Press button 3 and hold in Panic Mode is activated. Press button 1 two times (ROUNDELbmw)
Quote Originally Posted by Bindy1982 I have a bmw z4 2.2. Been away for the weekend. Jumped in the car this morning and went to start but died. Tried again to restart but engine didnt even turn over. Made the starter motor sound when you turn the key when the car is already running. Have tried serveral times but still not starting anyhints to what this could be I was having some rough starts for a
I was getting the same message repeatedly. bmw dealer insisted the battery was OK but finally tested it at my insistence. Battery tested bad even though the bmw systems in the vehicle said it was fine so they replaced it. Four months and 5000 miles later problem has not reoccurred. P.S. I later found out bmw NA stiffed the dealer and would not reimburse the dealer for the battery replacement in spite
use your key in the slot on the drivers side door frame which then gives you the constant light. We might be in violent agreement. EB Right out of the 2005 owners manual (I own a 2004) Quote Automatic deactivation of the passenger airbags Before transporting a child on the passenger seat be sure to observe the information instructions under Transporting children safely refer to page 33. Your bmw
Sounds like its beign starved of fuel like the line back to the tank is draining during the 1.5 weeks. There is enough fuel in the fuel rail to start the car but before the fuel pump brings the system up to pressure the car stumbles. I think on the Z4s if you switch the ignition on (but dont start) the fuel pump runs to pressurize the system after a couple of seconds then go ahead and start the car.
Its been the general consensus that nobody on the forum likes the DICE. Someone posted a video of themselves smashing it or setting it on fire or something to great applause. I wasted 150 or something like that on the predecessor the IceLink which was simply an unholy piece of crap that crashed constantly if you tried to display text and was impossible to navigate. It never came remotely close to living up to what it was supposed to do. I tried to see if Tom would give me a break on the Dice for this reason nope. After using a friends Dice on an E46 I finally gave in and decided it was better than nothing so I paid ANOTHER 150 or 200 or whatever it cost at the time. This was with the understanding that it would probably just do what the IceLink was supposed to do all along. So I got to pay twice for the privilege of a very marginal product. Maybe the first one was my beta tester fee. The Dice DOES work better than the IceLink and the real killer feature is that it allows iPod and deck control at the same time. At least on the Z3 trying to change playlists or shuffle or any of the functions via the deck is an exercise in utter futility its simply too slow to come even close to useful functionality. But at least you can pick up the iPod and select your playlists and whatnot. What it does is play my iPod tunes thru the factory system allows me to change tracks forward and back with the deck controls and displays the ID3 info on the display. Thats about all it does. Better than nothing but fairly lousy. It crashes quite often which requires digging around in my trunk (always at the most inopportune times) unplugging everything and plugging it all back in then trying the ignition again to see if the Dice has decided to work. In recent months (after a few years of Dice ownership) Ive noticed that it only seems to crash if I leave it playing when I shut off the car. so to avoid this I hit the CD button on my deck every time before I shut the car down. Seems to do the trick. So at least on the Z3 its a very marginal product that just barely does what its supposed to. It technically allows you to navigate thru playlists on the deck but only if you have 5 minutes to spare. This is likely down to the limitations of the decks interface though. For all I know it cant accept data any more quickly. I have no interest in spending more money to replace the whole system with something that works better so here I am. Hope it works better on the Z4. It likely does since your deck should be more advanced.
On another note the bmw phone manual is not at all helpful. Im been told that to set up the phone using the radio screen that one must start the process by turning the ignition switch to the first position and activating the phone button of the steering wheel. This Im told allows the Bluetooth system to search for the phone for recognition. I havent done this. That is my next step unless someone has other correct instructions.
Its seems like your trying to do too much at once. Try concentrating on one thing at a time. Building an engine correctly is not a quick and easy task. Concentrate on getting it built and running before you try to make it run on alternative fuels. After you get the new engine running well on gasoline get it running on E85. This shouldnt be too hard. You obviously need to increase the amount of fuel
Quote Originally Posted by DOHCRT Its seems like your trying to do too much at once. Try concentrating on one thing at a time. Building an engine correctly is not a quick and easy task. Concentrate on getting it built and running before you try to make it run on alternative fuels. After you get the new engine running well on gasoline get it running on E85. This shouldnt be too hard. You obviously need
These type engine equippages have a sensor in the fuel system that is designed to measure the difference in specific fuel and changes the PCM program so injection levels are changes to meet the fuelengine requirements and also ignition timing changes vs load etc. The fuel system is also designed to handle the changes in fuel. Check before you buy just dont assume.
on my ols 4.0l i always ran 91 i tried 87 and 89 and i noticed a diff in mpg and overall response from the truck and when i towed even more so. E85 is a great thing i run it in 2 of my cars but theres a lot involved with ensuring having a full system that can support the extra fuel requirements needed for E85 plus the need for the tuning needed to take advantage of the ignitionfuel tables. i bet a stock 4.0L tuned on E85 will put around 330-350hp
The manual mentions that flashing could be one (or more) of the following - (1) TPMS sensor(s) not installed in tires or defective. (2) No communication between TPMS and ICComputer. (3) Temporary interfering signal in the area operating in the same radio freq range as the TPMS system Had mine do the same thing recently. I had been progressively dropping the psi on the new tires wo resetting the TPMS
The chip in eitherboth keys is RFID technology. A battery is not needed to activate an RFID chip. The battery is there for the remote lockingunlocking nothing more. Your car should start even with a fully discharged battery. The fact that Rons wallet key starts the car is further evidence that the chip alone and not any external battery source is what the ignition system needs to see.
Well this issue seemed to improve for a little while after switching to using Techron premium as well as doing a full injection system clean at the dealer but never really went away. It is most common after it has been running then standing for at least 10minutes. The last week temps have increased alot and I drove it a bunch over this easter weekend. The last couple of days with temps over 80 the
Theres been one post here that I remember where the key was left in the ignition in the accessory position I believe and the battery ran down. Somewhere in the process it appears the supply voltage to the EWS put it in an unstable mode and the code for that key got corrupted. That key would not start the car but any other key would. Theres a post in the Z4 forum currently where they had the same thing
I dont have a Z4 I have a Z3. I assume that you have a stock factory radio I would say that you need to check the fundamentals before proceeding. I would start by checking the integrity of the factory fuses A Google search says that the fuse b ox is behind the glove box. The radio will have 2 fuses feeding it one that is always hot and one that gets power only when the ignition is on. Another item
Quote Originally Posted by Mikey48 Hey Zixxer. I know 14 days may seem like a long time but I would wait on that diagnostic test. It could save you a lot of time and money. Bob2.8 has a good point with the intake boot. My 2004 Z4 3.0i needed a intake boot replacement after it cracked at the bend. This is also very hard to see. I would look the engine over and see if anything is loose. You might also
Quote Originally Posted by ANZAC_1915 the 35i makes more sense to me - fewer things to go wrong. Well the diesel has no ignition system so thats a few less things to go wrong on the diesel. Having just had my Z4 flat-bedded 100 miles due to a bad coil this Summer (with the hold down chain scraping bare spots in the bumper paint) I can appreciate the lack of spark plugs and coils on the diesel.
Quote Originally Posted by CDahl There is also increased maintenance on injectors and other parts with diesel. Considering the above seems like higher long term maintenance costs are fairly obvious. But no ignition system spark plugs or coils. I just replaced a coil on my 2004 Z4 with 32000 miles.
So Ive been thinking about how this problem might be detected before the sensor is broken and what could be done to prevent the fuel sending unit problem. 1. Preemptive replacement of the gas tank is probably a non-starter. Its way to expensive and too much has to be disassembled and replaced. The plastic tank is quite sturdy. The weak point is probably a bonded white cap that feeds () the pressure sensing unit ( httpwww.bimmerfest.comforumssho...d.phpt607871 ). 2. Checking the metal straps holding the gas tank to the body for missing pads is certainly a good idea. It seems to me at though these are unlikely to fall out without something else serious happening such as a blocked air intake valve that allows the pressure in the tank to fall causing the tank to collapse inward or perhaps some high speed road debris hitting the tank just right. I would replace missing pads immediately and if possible check for air intake valve problems. 3. Since over-filling might be a bad idea I would be sure not to over-fill. Ive noticed that the pump nozzles are shorter now than they used to be. Does that mean that the pump cuts off later than it used to Are they more prone to over-filling I have no idea. Some have said that leaving the key in the ignition in accessory position while fueling can lead to fuel sending unit problems because the Z3s computer gets confused. In that case they report that disconnecting the electrical (e..g disconnecting the battery) clears the problem. If you try this be sure that you have your radio unlock code available and you understand that the computer will have to relearn your driving pattern. This process will obviously not fix a cracked rheostat. I also dont believe that it would be likely to cause a cracked rheostat. Another frequent suggestion to prevent or even to cure a fuel sending unit problem is to run Techron through the fuel system ( httpwww.bimmerfest.comforumssho...d.phpt392232 ). Apparently early fuel sensors were subject to build up of deposits on the contacts. The newer fuel sending units use gold plated contacts. I use Chevron Premium. I cant see how this would cause or help a cracked rheostat. FYI I my experience in the process of cracking the rheostat all of the way through a fuel sending unit may behave erratically sometimes working and sometimes driving the fuel gage to all the way to the empty-off position. Consequently its possible to think that youve fixed the problem only to have it recur a short time later. Any other thoughts or suggestions in the prevention arena (buying a Z4 would be a cute suggestion but not helpful)
Quote Originally Posted by Rex Tener Those plugs are for the S54 motor you need the ones for a S52. (S54) ------------------ 12 12 0 022 902 NGK DCPR 8 EKP (S52) ------------- 12 12 9 069 877 Bosch FGR 8 KQC L12.80 Some people use the NGK BKR 6 EQUP Mark Sipe listed above what he is using in his Z4. Rex NGK recommends the BKR6EQUP for the S52. The BKR6EIX is not recommended by NGK for any of these