bmw series 6 tensioner roll

Answers and questions: bmw series 6 tensioner roll

Good luck I tried doing this last year just to see.... Repacking my old tensioner pulley went well and it still looks as though it would work in a pinch but I split the seal on the idler pulley right off the bat. The outer edge on those can be very stubborn and mine was circa 99 so probably heat-degraded and brittle as well. Thanks for the info on greases and amounts.

I would probably agree with the parts person that Timken is overkill as you will hopefully be getting a new one under warranty. So why put such good grease in something you will be using temporarily. i.e. 3 weeks for warranty process. What would probably work best is a dental pick to get underneath the lip of the seal and scrape around the edge to get it loose. Alternatively have you considered replacing

Quote Originally Posted by dvsgene ... stuff deleted ... Alternatively have you considered replacing just the roller with a Dayco 89133 for about C20 If I recall the rollers are held in by a T45 Torx bolt. Thanks thats a good idea. Ill check it out. It looks as though Im stuck for return shipping for warranty with the vendor (%&) so if I can get the Dayco for a reasonable price the few difference is well worth the time saved. The key point is getting a reasonable price here in Canada

Quote Originally Posted by cn90 rdl I did exactly this 6 months ago so far so good. I posted the info here httpwww.bimmerfest.comforumssho...d.phpt555526 1. As you said use a blunt pick tool (no sharp tip) and remove the seal insert the pick tool until it passes the inner lip of the seal then turn the tool 90 degrees so it hooks on the metal portion of the seal. It will come out. 99% of engine seals

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Pulleys and tensioners

Hey guys Its been a long time since I posted but I do read the threads everyday. I was thinking about selling my 2002 540 sport auto with 124k miles but I cant I love her to much. So ive been doing little things here and there wrapping the interior in aluminun vinyl. I suck at wrapping need to order more vinyl. Will post pics when interior is completed . I installed some guage rings. I decided to do

here are the instructions I wrote (and constantly adjusted) for replacing the alternator and belt drive components TEXT DIY FOR ALTERNATOR tensionerS IDLER rollER & BELTS (July 2010) Contributors (in order of appearance) bluebee mmm635 pleiades 540_M-Sport cn90 QSilver7 Fudman doru jarhed1964 supradupe xraye39 DHoang five.two.five Jason5driver harris2p 540iman & MatWiz. SYSTEM DESCRIPTION - bmw

View Tensioner, roll for BMW SERIES 6

BMW SERIES 5 E39 DIY AC Belt Tensioner Replacement

I did a few searches and see no reference to an M54 530i with MECHANICAL AC tensioner. The only only DIY I came across had you cutting off the belt which seems questionable. 1) Loosen the tensioner bolt using bolt head 2) While holding it open stick allen key into holes to pin it open 3) Move slackened belt aside 4) Remove 2 mounting bolts holding tensioner in place. This is the tricky part. Make sure

here are the instructions I wrote (and constantly adjusted) for replacing the alternator and belt drive components TEXT DIY FOR ALTERNATOR tensionerS IDLER rollER & BELTS (July 2010) Contributors (in order of appearance) bluebee mmm635 pleiades 540_M-Sport cn90 QSilver7 Fudman doru jarhed1964 supradupe xraye39 DHoang five.two.five Jason5driver harris2p 540iman & MatWiz. SYSTEM DESCRIPTION - bmw

BMW SERIES 5 E39 1999 E39-Tensioners & Belts Replaced

I have a 1999 528i sedan sports package...How do I replace a destroyed WP Pulley tensioner.. I need step by Step Instructions & tools needed... Should I replace the Idler tensioner also.. Should i replace the AC Belt .. ....Help ... I do not want to remove Radiator...

As already stated many DIYs are already in the bestlinks sticky thread. For example ... - Removal instructions for the alternator & drive belt system of a 2002 525i Quote Originally Posted by bluebee SYSTEM DESCRIPTION - bmw 2002 525iM54 engineA5S.325Z automatic transmission - Bosch 120amp air-cooled alternator with multi-function control - INA mechanical belt tensioners for both belts - belt-driven

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Belt tentsioners and rollers got me confused

Getting ready to order my parts to replace my cooling system and am stumped on the AltWP rollers and AC roller along with the tensioners. Ive asked several parts sites and get conflicting information. i.e. 4 rollers (I seem to count 3) part numbers for both mechanical as well as hydraulic tentsioners huh By this I mean supplied VIN and they give me part numbers for both. Should be 1 or the other. realauto

up with the tensioners due to limited visibility in the engine bay. WPAlt tensioner well finialy I saw the hydraulic tensioner so the roller fell into place. But the AC roller and tensioner the part number in your doc was just not working for me. I think that 99 have mechanical tensioners. 1999 shows no parts for hydraulic tensioner (you have to change the model year to 1999) httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...45&hg11&fg18

up with the tensioners due to limited visibility in the engine bay. WPAlt tensioner well finialy I saw the hydraulic tensioner so the roller fell into place. But the AC roller and tensioner the part number in your doc was just not working for me. I think that 99 have mechanical tensioners. 1999 shows no parts for hydraulic tensioner (you have to change the model year to 1999) httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...45&hg11&fg18

BMW SERIES 5 E39 WHY would a hydraulic belt tensioner be any quieter than a mechanical belt tensioner

Today I came across the attached bmw technical service bulletin ( SIB 110403 ) which intimates under certain circumstances an hydraulic alternator-belt tensioner may actually run quieter than the original mechanical alternator-belt tensioner on the M54 engine. Why Specifically since the most common noise complaint for bmw belt tensioners is due to the pulley bearings why would a hydraulic tensioner

The key obvious questions unanswered in this bmw SIB are Q1 Is the bearing loading any different between hydraulic & mechanical tensioners Q2 Are the bearings themselves any different between hydraulic & mechanical tensioners Q3 Is the problem only related to the alternator tensioner or does it also apply to the AC belt tensioner GP Burdell and bmw_jeff_325i provided a decent hypothesis to answer question

Personally heres my algorithm The only way to tell what tensioners you have is to first recognize the two types and then second look to see what you have on your vehicle. I would NEVER fuss with the manual-to-hydraulic conversion kit It costs too much and it gains you too little (almost nothing in reality). Follow the CN90 DIYs if you want to just rebuild the hydraulic tensioners otherwise replace

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Mechanical or hydraulic tensioner

I have a 99 328i. How do you know if you have a Mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioner. I plan on ordering from autohaus but there are 2 different kinds and I cant tell by looking at it. It is making a noise so would i be able to just replace the pulley

Belt A has three pulleys 1) AC Condender 2) AC adjusting pulley (A-2) Crankshaft I want to replace all three of the idlerdeflection roller pulleys (A-2 B-2 B-6) during an upcoming major cooling service. Based on this diagram I can find the deflection roller (pulley B-6) under part number 11-28-1-73-8-605 and the adjusting pulley (pulley B-2) under part number 11-28-1-74-8-131 httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...90&hg11&fg18

Quote Originally Posted by bluebee Personally I went with Ina mechanical tensioners from OemBimmerparts. I see you said you looked at the threads ... but just in case for the record here is the pragmatic difference between the mechanical & hydraulic from the bmw TIS and how to convert and why you would want to convert and how to tell which you have - How to tell if you have mechanical or hydraulic

Quote Originally Posted by psa I have a hard time believing that the mechanical part of the tensioner would go bad......I think its much more likely that the bearings in the pulleys rollers will go bad before the mechanical part of the tensioner goes bad....wouldnt you think.. In post 64 of one of the thread I listed people have successfully replaced just the pulley in the mechanical tensioners (for far less cost than replacing the entire tensioner). Its just that bmw wont sell you just the pulley but the replacing just the pulley seems perfectly feasible.

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Pulleys on AC and Alternator tensioners identical

Just changed belts my idler pulley and the pulley on the alternator tensioner (hydraulic) -- all hail the BimmerWiki. Noticed a little too much spin on the AC tensioner pulley. Is this part identical to the pulley on the alternator tensioner And if so is the fix a quick swap out with only a new pulley (like the alternator tensioner) or should the entire AC tensioner unit be replaced Edit 02 330Ci

Quote Originally Posted by Starless I do not think there is a hydraulic AC tensioner though thats the pulley he needs... Exactly. As far as I know a hydraulic unit was only made for the alternator tensioner and all E46s maintain a mechanical AC tensioner. Im confused because AutohausAZ lists this pulleyroller which I just put on my hydraulic alternator tensioner as fitting either the AC or alternator

Quote Originally Posted by C-Bear Exactly. As far as I know a hydraulic unit was only made for the alternator tensioner and all E46s maintain a mechanical AC tensioner. Im confused because AutohausAZ lists this pulleyroller which I just put on my hydraulic alternator tensioner as fitting either the AC or alternator tensioner making me wonder if it might also be a direct swap on the mechanical AC tensioner

Quote Originally Posted by iskoos Autohausaz clearly says that you can not use the pulley made for hydraulic tensioner for a mechanical unit. I do not know why. I read that too and its confusing because the pulleyroller is listed for the Alternator andor AC Belt. I took AutohausAZ to mean you cant use the pulleyroller specifically on the mechanical alternator tensioner but that it could be used on either the hydraulic alternator or the (presumably mechanical) AC tensioner.

Quote Originally Posted by Starless I was going to suggest something like that too...You need to change the pulley on your mech. AC tensioner. Officially the only way is to buy the whole unit...which by the way is not that expensive. Thats what I did...But you say you have that old pulley from the hydraulic tensioner So try it As far as I remember it just takes a torx bit to remove the pulley from

BMW SERIES 5 E39 1997 bmw 528i tensioner bearing

My car has been making noises lately so I recently had a mechanic fix my tensioner pully belts. I forgot to mention the bearing needed to be changed. I am wondering where I can buy the bearing so that I can do it myself.

Quote Originally Posted by vudoo any clue how much these bearing cost The generic answer to that oft-asked question is in the bestlinks - bmwfans phantom diagrams ( 1 ) & Realoem nominal prices by part number ( 1 ) & EACTuning prices by part number ( 1 ) & joining bmwCCA to lower parts costs ( 1 ) ( 2 ) & the most often recommended parts suppliers ( 1 ) Quote Originally Posted by vudoo how many do

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Is pulley for mechanical belt tensioner same as hydraulic tensioner

I have a mechanical belt tensioner with some play in the pulley. I may have taken it apart in the past and repacked with grease so now I just want to replace it. When I put in the part number (11281748131- RealOEM mechanical tensioner picture for 98 528) in the search field the vendors state that the pulley is only for hydraulic tensioners. Is the pulley the same for both types of tensioners or is there a different part for the mechanical pulley TIA

Here is my DIY Cooling Overhaul for 1998 528i same layout as yours but I have hydraulic tensioners www.bimmerboard.comforumsposts199986 In my car the rollers (aka pulley) are sold separate from the hydraulic tensioners rollers x 2 PN 11281748131 --- 18each (for AC belt and for between Crank and WP Pulleys) Idler roller PN 11281738605 (this sits between WP and Alternator Pulleys) Hydraulic tensioner

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Mechanical vs hydraulic belt Tensioner

Hi Guys I finally get to check the squeal noise and as you all suggested it was the tensioner. My Indy is now asking me to order the parts. Now the problem is when I went to get the parts from the stealership they said the mechanical is discontinued and I have to upgrade it to the Hydraulic (200.00) and for the belts around (100.00). I didnt fall for that and went back and checked autohausaz and they

BMW SERIES 5 E39 2003 530i - AC Tensioner Pulley part number help

Hey everyone need some help finding the actual part for a AC Belt tensioner Pulley on 2003 530i. According to this forum httpwww.bimmerboard.comforumsposts199986 The part should be 11281748131 But when I bought this part its actually wrong. No way can it fit sungly as the original. My full AC Belt tensioner Assembly looks like this httpwww.ecstuning.combmw-E39-530...nerES2528731 Can anyone tell me Thanks.

Go to the bestlinks and do a tensioner F3. Youll find the canonical threads for the tensioner. As you found out many people will suggest RealOEM or your VIN to look up the part number but if you actually try (I was also a victim of that advice) youll find out that RealOEM can NOT help you. Youll find out that you first have to VISUALLY look to see if you have hydraulic or mechanical tensioners. In addition you clearly have the 2003 E39 because AFAIK no other E39 has the mechanical tensioner adjustment fulcrum point as a recessed T60 Torx. All other E39s have the mechanical tensioner adjustment fulcrom point as a raised hex nut. But all this is a repeat of what youll find in the bestlinks. For example Quote Common questions which need to be answered BEFORE you do an alternator andor drive belt system overhaul - 1st Physically determine what type of tensioners you have ( 1 ) - 2nd Physically determine exactly what alternator you have ( 1 ) - 3rd Determine which parts you need to buy for a complete drive belt system overhaul ( 1 ) - 4th Do the alternator and drive belt system DIY (belts tensioners pulleys rollers alternator) ( 1 ) Alternator and Belt Drive DIYs - Removal instructions for the alternator & drive belt system of a 2002 525i - Removal instructions for the fan shroud of a 2002 525i - Alternator and Belt Drive DIY ( 1 ) ( 2 ) - How to tell if you have spring-drive or hydraulic belt tensioners or both ( 1 ) - How to diagnose noises coming from the drive belt system ( 1 ) - One users example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair ( 1) ( 2 ) - Video of cold idle engine squeal ( 1 ) - Recommended parts list for a complete belt drive system overhaul ( 1) - How to make your own bmw special cooling & belt drive system counterhold tools ( 1 ) etc.

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Do we have hydraulic or mechanical serpentine polyribbed drive belt tensioners

How do I know if I have a 2002 6-cylinder engine with hydraulic belt tensioners or a 6-cylinder engine with spring-loaded belt tensioners On page 020-17 the Bentley manual shows an incomprehensibly grainy picture of both polyribbed serpentine drive belt systems - which is bad enough but its worse because you cant easily see the various pulleys and tensioners inside the actual engine compartment. Since

raised outside hex casting with a hole in the center. Am I correct in these two assumptions ASSUMPTION The pulley with the off-center bolt is the idler pulley ASSUMPTION The raised dime-sized hollow hex casting indicates a mechanical tensioner NOTE Picture references - hydraulic vs. mechanical tensioner - Replace Pulley or Entire tensioner - Changing mechanical tensioner to hydraulic - OEM bmw

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Just changed my 97 528is belt tensioners.

After a recent belt change by my mechanic as preventative maintenance while doing an alternator job my pulleys started making a horrible squealing sound upon startup. The sound is embarassing and would last for a few minutes after startup. Then it would quiet down. So after reviewing CN90s DIY I went to PelicanParts.com and ordered two parts 11-28-1-427-252 and 11-28-1-748-131. The first part 11-28-1-427-252

For the record this question was asked again today Quote Originally Posted by supark Im replacing the idler and deflection pulleys on my E39 540i but when I checked it initially I couldnt figure out the correct way to tension the belt tensioner on the main serpentine belt. On the I-6s you just insert a hex key into the idler pulley to get the serpentine belt in there - but there doesnt seem to be a

BMW SERIES 5 E39 hydraulic tensioner missing

can a missing hydraulic tensioner that goes in between the idle pully and water pump belt set up cause the car to over heat this might be the reason my car over heated and blew radiator or is it ok if its not there

right well that is missing on my car but alternator works and power steering is working is that possible Nonot really. Look Gils I do respect that you are trying to figure this out yourself and really getting in there with the missing tensioner theory...but I also suspect you have mechanical tensioners and may not be missing anything at all. Its very hard to imagine any mechanic even a certified bmw

BMW SERIES 5 E39 AC tensioner or pulley sticking or belt

Hi guys Ive done some searching and believe its led me to one or the other hoping that somebody can confirm with these details. 2000 528i manual with 95k. About once or twice a week upon cold start only I get a beltpulleytensioner squeal for about 5-8 seconds initially then the noise stops and everything sounds normal. So I know something needs to be changed and I doubt its the belt itself since that

Quote Originally Posted by cn90 I still dont understand why you want to do that. If you have over 100K you may as well change them all (tensioners x 2 rollers x 3) as in my DIY. And never look back. I did them all 3 years ago in May 2006 and has never looked back in that area behind the Fan Clutch Sorry Im sounding confusing I will be replacing these 3 rollers and the 2 tensioners as indicated from

Quote Originally Posted by Mikes00528i Sorry Im sounding confusing I will be replacing these 3 rollers and the 2 tensioners as indicated from your DIY. Youre absolutely right I dont want to leave anything undone. I just meant Ill check the WP PS & alternator while Im in there. Mike I got it now. I re-read your first post you did the cooling system minus the tensioners and rollers back in July 2008.

BMW SERIES 5 E39 AC tensioner assy pulley

Ive searching for just the pulley to purchase but no luck according to realoem.com there is no part number for the pulley. This is some kind of gimmick if you ask me. They want you to buy the whole tensioner assy. Whats up with that Anybody has any luck find a cross referrence part for this. httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...63&hg11&fg18

Go to local parts store and check your existing pulley with this one httpwww.rockauto.comcatalogmoreinfo.phppk999453 Whatever it is if you are creative enough you will find a similar (though not exactly the same) fit for 10-12. But If you ask me what Id do Id cough up with 45 and done with. This part is not expensive enough for me to go through all this trouble. But give it a try bring your bmw

Go to local parts store and check your existing pulley with this one httpwww.rockauto.comcatalogmoreinfo.phppk999453 Whatever it is if you are creative enough you will find a similar (though not exactly the same) fit for 10-12. But If you ask me what Id do Id cough up with 45 and done with. This part is not expensive enough for me to go through all this trouble. But give it a try bring your bmw

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Idle issues after belt tensioner replace

I bought this 2003 325i from a dealer that I trust (as much as you can trust a honda dealer lol) and the first thing I noticed was that I had the tensioner issue that these are famous for - so as part of the deal they replaced the tensioner pulley idler and put new belts on there. The issue was that it was squawking really bad on first start in moderately cold weather. As some of us here know this

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Mechanical Belt Tensioner For Alternator

My 2000 B.M.W. 528i has a bad alternator belt tensioner. Went to dealer and they said the mechanical one is no longer available and I could only buy the hydraulic one. Price is astounding What should I do What manufacturer made the original mechanical alternator belt tensioner INA I want the original B.M.W. part.

Typing oem f3 in the bestlinks nets this - What brand is the OEM original equipment manufacturer for your bmw parts ( 1 ) & what parts & supplies are best to buy OEM OES or OE ( 1 ) See also Quote Common questions which need to be answered BEFORE you do an alternator andor drive belt system overhaul - 1st Physically determine what type of tensioners you have ( 1 ) - 2nd Physically determine exactly

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Belts Tensioner s Idler Pulley Replacement

I am trying to get all my ducks in a row before proceeding with the replacement of my belts mech. tensioners and idler pulley. I found some information that leads me to believe that I may NOT have to remove the fan shroud in order to accomplish this (But im not sure). The following was indicated by Bluebee in a summary version of the cn90 DIY Summary of the nine removal steps (supplied by cn90) 0.

For the record (but not to supersede any much more comprehensive partstools lists compiled by others (i.e. bluebee)) the following are what I used to complete this DIY Parts 1 11281735899 Accessory Belt tensioner Assembly Water PumpAlternator Mechanical Type 1 11281738605 Idler Pulleyroller Water PumpAlternator Offset Mounting 1 11287512758 Accessory Belt tensioner Assembly AC Compressor Belt 1 4PK0865 Serpentine BeltRibbed Drive Belt AC Compressor 1 6PK1538 Serpentine BeltRibbed Drive Belt AlternatorPower SteeringWater Pump Tools Equipment Ramps Wheel chocks Hammer 32mm combination wrench Large adjustable crescent wrench Socket set (16mm & 13mm sockets) T60 torx socket Torque wrench Screwdrivers Other bmw OEM coolant Distilled water

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Torque values for pulleys tensioners

Hi there Im trying to use this chart to find the torque values before I tackle the job of replacing the mechanical tensioner and hydraulic tensioner and pulleys on my 1998 528i httpwww.bmw-m.netTechDatatorqbmw_torq.pdf The problem is that when I do a search for pulley or tensioner I cant find what Im looking for. Could someone please help me to find the values that Im looking for in this chart. Thanks

Quote Originally Posted by elbee the torque values before I tackle the job of replacing the mechanical tensioner and hydraulic tensioner and pulleys on my 1998 528i I cant imagine that Ive written a DIY without torque figures ... so looking up mine ... Quote - 1st Physically determine what type of tensioners you have ( 1 ) - 2nd Physically determine exactly what alternator you have ( 1 ) - 3rd Determine

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Replacement belt tensioner pulleys

I have the mechanicalspring tensioners and wondering if anyone knows if the pulleys are replaceable. When searching I find several listed but the INA OE ones seem to indicate that they are only for the Hydraulic tensioners. Gotta think (hope) that the mechanicals are replaceable too.

Quote Originally Posted by bluebee I dont have much to add to this discussion except one caution and one question. Caution Without removing the fan shroud I found it impossible to fit my wrench on the pulley bolt (to just remove the pulley) from the OEM INA mechanical tensioner. It was actually easier to remove the entire mechanical tensioner than just the pulley because those bolts were set back an

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Idler PulleyTensioner

Im looking for quick clarification. Im looking at replacing the Idler pulley and accessory belt tensioner. How do these come off I know I need to turn clockwise to release pressure to replace the belts so do I continue rotating clockwise to remove and is the removal the same for both the tensioner and pulley I did search but can only find the method for replacing belts. I get light squeaking so i am assuming these two parts are the culprits.

Hard to say httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...90&hg11&fg18 From this parts diagram (its for my car 2003 E46) with a hydraulic tensioner it looks like its mounted by the center bolt. But Id be interested in how this works as I probably am going to replace my deflectionroller assembly at Inspection II in a few months myself.

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Tensioner bearings

i have an annoying problem sometimes when i start my car there is a squealing sound from under the hood it is somewhere on the front side around the alternator it only happens sometimes and when it does it will stop after 10 or 15 minutes also if it is squealing when i go past a ceartian rpm it will not make the sound and when the rpms drop it will make the sound. does nybody know what this is or have had similar problems any info would be much appreciated

jimy Look at the write-up carefully. There are Two (2) tensioners Three (3) rollers. If you have not replaced them they are due The rule of thumb is these tensioners (they act like a spring to apply tension on the belt and that is all) and the rollers are basically gone after 100-110K. If any of these break while you are on the highway count on - NOT ONLY replacing the roller but ALSO - The belts -

BMW SERIES 5 E39 2000 528I tensioner replacement help

Hello My belt tensioner broke off(wp crank roller). I read CNN-090 write up but that is for entire cooling over haul. I had the done at my local shop which included (radiator thermostat hoses electric fan water pump) Since all that is new do I have to remove the fan shroud and fan to get to the tensioner I am also thinking of replacing the deflector roller. Anything else I should be replacing Thanks in advance Reece

In my write-up httpwww.bimmerboard.comforumsposts199986 With Fan Clutch out it is ALOT easier to work on the tenionersrollers. Otherwise you can replace the tensioner from BELOW (remove splashguard first). Whether you do from ABOVE or BELOW it will take the same amount of time. Personally I like working ABOVE. It is more pleasant this way. I would remove the Fan Clutch but do NOT take it out. Simply

Quote Originally Posted by cn90 In my write-up httpwww.bimmerboard.comforumsposts199986 With Fan Clutch out it is ALOT easier to work on the tenionersrollers. Otherwise you can replace the tensioner from BELOW (remove splashguard first). Whether you do from ABOVE or BELOW it will take the same amount of time. Personally I like working ABOVE. It is more pleasant this way. I would remove the Fan Clutch

the Idler roller between WP and Alternator plastic roller was missed only the inside part left. The belt still in position the top face of the belt has small worn but I think the belt is still OK to work. may drive some distance with the missing idler roller. I cant find the plastic part of the roller also checked around didnt see any damage on blade hoses etc. So I need to replace two mechanical tensioners

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Im having problems installing my new tensioner

Hi all If youve been looking at my posts lately you know that I am following cn90s cooling system overhaul. Ive completed the waterpump install and the thermostat install and I am now tackling the tensioners and rollers (the belts are all off at this point). I started by removing the ac hydraulic tensioner. When I went to install the new tensioner I noticed that something moved when I removed the tensioner

BMW SERIES 3 E46 Drive belt tensioner not moving HELP

Im replacing my cooling system today and my drive belt tensioner doesnt seem to move. Im turning the nut in a clockwise direction as per bentley manual but no love. Am I missing something Is anyone out there who can help Can I just cut the old belt since Im replacing it anyway If you want to call to talk me off the ledge its 908283-3548. Thanks Jonathan

Quote Originally Posted by Llando88 1. There is no way a properly installed belt is going on without releasing that tensioner. I concur (quick-install video notwithstanding) At least for my (mechanical tensioners) M54 engine you have to know when and where to leverage - which is not intuitive. Once youve done it its then intuitive. But not before. BTW if you have the mechanical tensioners on the M54

BMW SERIES 5 E39 Belts Tensioners & Pulley replacement

I was told all the coolant needs to be drained and flushed when replacing Belts tensioner & Pulley is that true I just had the Coolant Flushed two months ago. Since the coolant is still pretty new can it be put it back in the radiator after the belts and others are done. PLEASE HELP

Quote Originally Posted by rdl some time ago I found a reference for Dayco 89133 being suitable for the AC & mechanical serpentine tensioners. (but not hydraulic serpentine) I will cross reference this information to this thread which already has a lot of data on the dayco replacement E39 (1997 - 2003) Do we have hydraulic or mechanical serpentine polyribbed drive belt tensioners See also Recommended

BMW SERIES 3 E46 alternator pulley tensioner noise

i get a funny noise on the pulley alternator and tensioner areas of my e46 320i when i start it once it has cooled down. its an irritating wuuuuuuuuuhuuuuuuu sound but it goes away after about 7mins on idle. Ive changed the tensioner pulleys and the belt is new but the noise is still there. Kuld my alternator be bust

I had a chirping sound coming from the left of my alternator but to the right of my fan... tensioner and alternator items are in that area. I changed my idler and tensioner pulley(rollers only) and it worked. Do not let the DEALER try to make you buy the whole mechanism you will most likely only need the rollers themselves.

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