No programing needed. you will have to make sure you have the right computer as they were different for each engine (there may have been more than one for each engine.. not quite sure). Once you have the correct ecu all you do is open the psgr side electronics box in the engine bay locate the ecu. Remove its harness and the clips that hold it in and put the new one in. Make sure your coils are good.
can be used to flash the ecu with new software. OBDI guys such as ourselves have to physically remove the ecu from the car open it up and swap out the chip. Software is not somewhere you want to get the cheapest thing available. Bad software can do a lot of harm to an engine. Stay away from Ebay chips and wierd no-name universal power module thingys like the link you posted. Go with a REPUTABLE bmw
do you actually think any company would design a product that would allow it to be snitched on to bmw and put it to market Dont you think lawsuits would put them out of business let alone the hatemail on the forums. They wouldnt be able to sell any units. This is the bottom line on bmw or any dealership. LISTEN CAREFULLY.... in order for any manufacturer to deny a clain they have to PROVE that the
Quote Originally Posted by phunkfarm do you actually think any company would design a product that would allow it to be snitched on to bmw and put it to market Dont you think lawsuits would put them out of business let alone the hatemail on the forums. They wouldnt be able to sell any units. Yes. Quote Originally Posted by phunkfarm LISTEN CAREFULLY.... Im reading carefully. Quote Originally Posted
The immobilizer is built into the ecu. Swapping it out with one from another car will cause your car never to start. The immobilizer control unit (EWS) communicates with the key fob and the ecu to make sure everything matches. If not then no go. It is not possible to recode the ecu to a different EWS. Youll need to swap out the EWS from the same donor car and re-code your keys. Alternatively you can
Quote Originally Posted by mr_bean The immobilizer is built into the ecu. Swapping it out with one from another car will cause your car never to start. The immobilizer control unit (EWS) communicates with the key fob and the ecu to make sure everything matches. If not then no go. It is not possible to recode the ecu to a different EWS. Youll need to swap out the EWS from the same donor car and re-code
Quote Originally Posted by crowz Glad to help. Depending on what you used there is a tester for bad injectors that works like you described. But the one Im talking about doesnt test to see if the injector is being driven or not it just checks it for performance aka if its working. If thats the case you may just have a bad injector I was thinking the same thing so I pulled all six of the injectors and
Quote Originally Posted by crowz On a pattern test it will go flat if the injector shorts goes open inside etc. As for one driver circuit failing its rare but each injector driver circuit is seperate so its very possible. Ive actually seen this a few times on gm units. But its very rare. If shorting injector causes a flat line then makes sense but in his first post he said he swapped the injectors
Quote Originally Posted by PropellerHead I voted for the Vortech as that is the same unit in ESS Dinan and VF. These guys must know something right Yep sounds about right... although i hear that bmw Z8 Alpina uses ASA supercharger unit. Then again i hear that this thing called twin-screw supercharger is supposed to blow everything out of the water... go figure... okay my head is spinning again... So
Quote Originally Posted by mkIRM3Vert You are innocent of breaking a law until proven guilty. bmws neednt prove nor even suggest youve broken any law to void your warranty. It is their warranty and their policy after all. All you can do is fight it out in court. You might win sure. But you could easily lose too. After all its almost certain that running the equipment outiside the engineered parameters
This sort of thing should probably be dealt with by a bmw dealer after all it is messing around with a system vital to driving safety It exists if you have a lit up ABS light its just you were probably looking around too low down. It is about the same dimensions as a car radio only slimmer. I just checked my Haines manual and it is located behind the glove box on the doorside wall of the car above where the speaker unit is. You need to remove the glove box to gain access I think.
If youre looking for a flash tune Id recommend that you check out the Cobb AccessPORT. The Cobb AccessPORT ecu Flash simply replaces conservative factory settings with more aggressive calibrations that result in impressive gains in torque and horsepower while still maintaining a high degree of safety for your N54 engine. The tuning is extremely flexible and allows you to choose on the fly one of the
BB I never thought Id answer one of your questionst o give you info but after looking myself and having some background with car assembly(I worked at NUMMI in Fremont for 10 years) Im 99.5% certain (without looking) that your ecu is GS 8.60.4. There arent too many companies in the world to design differing parts when the basic item is the same e.g. 528i with 5-speed auto would all have the same ecu
Unfortunately there is no DME location information in that page of Realoem as the little car in the bottom right box has no pointer to the DME location. Googling for the part number 12147551616 (Electronic basic control unit DME MS43 FLASH) I find that same control unit used in a variety of vehicles as you noted (e.g. both the525i E39 M54 2001-2003 & the 530i E39 M54 2001-2003). So I guess I need to
Hi I had mine coming on and clear the code and it whent out to come back after a year cleared the code again and it came back after 6 months and came on again with even shorter notice to finally become permanent. And i had this code from carsoft Code 01 - Internal ecu Error is equal to carsoft code 01 Airbag Control unit driver side. But its not the control unit i hesitated and took mine out and sent
Quote Originally Posted by bmw_525i_Noob No big deal... just trying to help out. And if you replace it with a new one and the lights stay on then what I will then replace the front sensors. The GT-1 computer said it was the module. Dont take it worng I did not want to offend you. I really want somebody to buy your unit. 540iman I have ASC not DSC. The DSC is 450 the ASC is 606 from EAC. I only paid
the items listed above are the DSC module ecu LCM and uhh i think the other one is ABS. not sure on the last one. heres pics of the nav unit. it is a MKIII 43 unit.
I dont know about wiring sorry... but... IF it goes so far that you need whole new ecu box you might consider updating to 318. Early 316 and 318 have same engine just camshaft adjustment unit and ecu make the difference. Would give you 12bhp more. Just IF you dont find cheap way out.
Front left facing your car under a black plastic cover (assuming your E34 is like my old 95 530i). There are several units there...ecuDME (main control module) transmission control etc. Look in this general area And the ecu under the plastic cover (its three or four screws to remove the cover IRRC) look something like this
Quote Originally Posted by elbee Hi all We had a problem with our AC and I am just posting this so that if anyone else has this problem they can learn from what happened in our situation. The AC stopped working and fuse 28 blew so I changed the final stage resistor and replaced the fuse. The car worked ok for a few days then fuse 28 blew again. I had no idea what the problem was so I took it to my
Quote Originally Posted by Armadyllo I would appreciate any help or input into the matter if it can be repaired or just require a new one I believe this work needs to be carried out be bmw. Has anyone heard of this before Whats made by man can be fixed by man but PCB repair takes special skills - dealer will simply R&R board wcore charge to send old unit for repair and resale by another company. Unless
Too bad about the 3 weeks to Australia. We could get a helicopter engine from Texas to Baghdad in one day and that was using UPS (united Parcel Service).
Thanks zen it was fun and Ill do it again - Ill have to perform better next time vs those pesky Porches and bring a new video back Quote Originally Posted by buymypie the ecu mod i was interested in is from Singh austosport. has anyone had any experiences with them Who Naw man - youre going to pay 1200 to a jack of all trades reflasher as compared to a far more versatile and powerful tuner who does
i give up im not going to mess with soldering the stock ecu. just gonna order a backup unit to put the chip in. cant risk not having a car for whatever reason.
Quote Originally Posted by dgallant I havent been able to find a recommendation on performing a preventative cooling system overhaul on the 2007 328i (mines a coupe). By overhaul Im considering the water pump thermostat level sending unit overflow tank hoses and belts. Is there a consensus on when this should done Any other parts you would recommend replacing There isnt a consensus AFAIK. The pump
Bummer. Sorry about the bad luck. Have other bmw shops neare you told you the same thing I just joined the forum but do you know if there are bmw service subject matter experts that contribute here as well or just us enthusiasts weekend mechanics Would be nice to get an honest opinion from a bmw service tech with good experience. Quote Originally Posted by 545ISMG4LIFE So here is the story guys I
for a short while after a normal hot or cold start can anyone confirm this Ive just tested the old and new coolant temp sensors and the results are pretty much the same 2.48K and 2.46K ohms respectively at an ambient 22 degs 0.33K and 0.35K ohms at a temp just off boiling. So I probably neednt of changed the temp sensor. Ive also changed the cam sensor again which although not embossed with the bmw
Here you go though it doesnt list a part . I think it is located in the box with the ecu the box next to your brake master cylinder. httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...31&hg24&fg20
The HU should always be connected to a constant 12v. The ignition needs to be connected to the HU so it knows when to turn on and when to shut off. You can use the cigg lighter as a trigger for ignition since it is switched with ignition. Most of the circuits on the fuse panel are shut off after the car enters sleep mode. You need a constant 12v from the battery. One option the installer can do is
3 possible problems for code 54 1. Engine control module (ECM). 2. Transmision control module (TCM). Both are communication faults (wiring short to earth TCM trouble codes stored). 3. Battery voltage-too lowhigh fault could be wiringalternatorbattery It is located in the pssgr side electronics box. you will need to remove 4 large philips screws to remove the cover. engine bay pic. It is on the far
Shes underneath the passenger side cabin air filter. Needs to be removed to access the ecu.
Quote Originally Posted by PolkNole Shes underneath the passenger side cabin air filter. Needs to be removed to access the ecu. Thanks- thats what i was checking on
I use only Bosch Silbers or NGKs no multi prong units for me in an M20.
conforti at turnermotorsports.com Horsepower Gain 15 5000 RPM Torque Gain 15 5000 RPM New Rev Limit 6900 RPM Price 249.95 dinan Price D900-2321 199.00 Labor units 8.0 Emission Status 50 State Emission Legal Peak Horsepower 202 6500 rpm Peak Horsepower Gain 20 7250 rpm Peak Torque 186 lbft 5000 rpm Peak Torque Gain 17 lbft 2500 rpm
Quote Originally Posted by AdaminPhilly I also cant find the main computer. Those are the same thing We call them ecus . like saying dog and canine
Quote Originally Posted by W325is if its coolant temp it should be the sensor with the single terminal And is also chocolate brown. Make sure the parts store gives you one with one prong otherwise they are giving you the temp sensor for the ecu not the gauge.
correct and you cant get the sensor at oreillys pep girls autozone etc. they only have the engine temp sensor for the ecu
Quote Originally Posted by W325is correct and you cant get the sensor at oreillys pep girls autozone etc. they only have the engine temp sensor for the ecu Try Napa. I find that they carry good quality parts. As good as a OEM aftermarket shop.