You can replace your distributor parts for less than 30 bucks.... To convert to distributorless coil on plug would be very costly and unless you match a mean turbo or build the heck out of your motor it wouldnt pay off. AEM makes a ecu.. you have to cut and splice every wire coming in and out of your ecu. Ive done one on a civic back in my installer days.. not fun and not easy. The ecu itself I believe
street tune dyno tune again. After a year of tuning youll maybe have a good running car again. You are right it would be much simpler and easier to do but I wanted to see if kits were sold by any chance I want to keep the engine original and not put in a different block for the work but if it is I guess I might have to move up to a e36 if they run off of coils. Im not to familiar with all the m series
You must really hate distributors Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
fast everywhere not just in the straight line) money would be better spent on headers and a freer exhaust maybe a chip or if your pockets are a bit deeper a turbo andor stroker build. My suspension is bulletin 1200 sway bar andall brakes Ive been experimenting try to see if I can find another 4 lug disk kit that would work and take along the calipers also I dont want tonput to much if another series
Plastic is non-conductive (correct me if Im wrong). The cover will keep some of the road grime off the distributor and makes for a cleaner appearance. If you want to replace it Id check the local salvage yard.
Quote Originally Posted by dlmpsy plastic is non-conductive (correct me if im wrong). The cover will keep some of the road grime off the distributor and makes for a cleaner appearance. If you want to replace it id check the local salvage yard. Quote Originally Posted by bimmerboy08 i would replace it. Why would the engineers have put it there if it was unnecessary Also i dont see how it could have
distributor Cap 03 212 Bosch distributor Cap 12 11 1 706 122 Bremi distributor Rotor 04 038 Bosch distributor Rotor 12 11 1 272 144 Bremi distributor FLANGE 12111252932 If u need anything let me know Shannon
Thanks for the info however it is not quite was i was looking for. My question distributor Type 0237 005 012 comes from which engine Cheers Slaphead
distributor CAP haha...oh my... We have electronic fuel injection and plasma coils...there is no distributor cap. P.S. Welcome To The Forum
Doesnt the M40 have a mechanical distributor I cant tell what 318i he has.
Oh wait I think it is a 1994 318i in his other thread. If that be so he would have an M42M43 which I dont think has a distributor cap.
I think it is beside the chrome plated multifluxdemodulator
Has anyone changed the rotor button in their distributor If so did it come right off Need some help. Thanks.
The button pulls straight up and off....mine does and its same year
Well if you have all three bolts loosened it should come off. Im not aware of the i cars having more than three bolts. You may need to tap the cap with a rubber mallet just not too hard. You may try getting a mirror and using it to see if the cap is snagging on something or if there is a mystery bolt somewhere.
you might have to remove the fan or the shroud but it is only three bolts and it should come right off with a small tap from a rubber mallet or a dead blow.
Not sure if a hammer would help. The cap acted like it would fall right off if I could just move it toward the front of the car enough to clear the rotor but something was in the way. I didnt have an inspection mirror but by touch alone it seemed like the coolant pipe was the culprit. Does that pipe run slightly in front of the cap on the 325i
This picture is not a picture of my engine bay but it may help. The hoses shouldnt get in the way very much when removing the cap. If they are usually they have enough play or give to not be a problem. The clutch fan will give a little bit if it is in the way normally you wouldnt have to remove the fan. In case you dont know if you removed the hoses you will need to bleed the coolant system. You could use a small household type mirror maybe a flashlight to see whats in the way.
Im not sure what you mean by timing the distributor If you bought a stock distributor cap it has the cylinder numbers molded right into the plastic at the bottom of the insulating posts (where the wires plug into). The wire coming from the coil (your magneto) plugs into the central post shown in the picture below
Only two things are likely to cause the symptoms you describe fuel or ignition problems. Assuming your Fuel Pump is operating normally and your Fuel Filter (or fuel line) is not clogged then it is probably ignition. I think in a previous post you mentioned that you have already replaced the plugs so the next in line (literally & figuratively) is the Plug Wires and the distributor Cap & Rotor. If the
Quote Originally Posted by Tourburgring Only two things are likely to cause the symptoms you describe fuel or ignition problems. Assuming your Fuel Pump is operating normally and your Fuel Filter (or fuel line) is not clogged then it is probably ignition. I think in a previous post you mentioned that you have already replaced the plugs so the next in line (literally & figuratively) is the Plug Wires
Definitely could cause rough running or mis-fires especially if the rotor is worn badly. You can also get tracking from the carbon brush deposits. I dont see how it could cause a vacuum leak though.
Lots of tracking infact there were carbon deposits everywhere. It looks like something broke off or came loose the rotor wore a pattern in the plastic case of the cap. I have a replacement on the way so hopefully it will be running smooth again.
Be sure to replace both the Cap & Rotor. If the rotor was touching the cap then you had better check the Rotor Shaft to make sure there is no excessive play in the bearings. Unless the cap became loose or the rotor broke apart they should never actually touch.
youd only ever notice a slight miss at idle. youd be amazed at how a small crack can but sometimes doesnt effect the spark. this is why we cant fully understand electricity. im sure there are many brands of dizzy caps but bosch is fine
Bosch is the OEM and will work the best you should also replace the rotor wiresand plugs as theyve probably been in there along time to look like yours.
Soak those bad boys on wd-40 for a day tapping every so often to set up a vibration then use HEAT Yes heat. Get a propane torch and gently heat around the area that the allen bolts are into... if that does not work. (I hate it when THAT happens)
Quote Originally Posted by 325ic a beer Soak those bad boys on wd-40 for a day tapping every so often to set up a vibration then use HEAT Yes heat. Get a propane torch and gently heat around the area that the allen bolts are into... if that does not work. (I hate it when THAT happens) ill try that tommorow wont a torch melt the plastic black thing...if its even plastic. if all fails ill put it back
vise grip alan wrench worked great. car doesnt run any better but now its one less thing to worry about