On the same topic I have been annoyed by the SW going up and down every time I enter and exit the car. I want to save the SW column motor from wearing down so I just want to set it in one position and done with. This is because the SW column motor is expensive. I understand different people have different needs some love this feature some hate this feature. In my other cars such as 2007 Honda Odyssey
I noticed a few people mention the steering wheel motor in passing while talking about seat problems. Does this seat motorswitch thing also effect the steering wheel movement This issue Im having is the automatic steering wheel movement that goes up and down when getting in or out of the car is inconsistent. Sometimes it stays up sometimes it stays down. I have a 01 540i. Any help would be appreciated.
Quote Originally Posted by Mike2 I noticed a few people mention the steering wheel motor in passing while talking about seat problems. Does this seat motorswitch thing also effect the steering wheel movement This issue Im having is the automatic steering wheel movement that goes up and down when getting in or out of the car is inconsistent. Sometimes it stays up sometimes it stays down. I have a 01
I do have two keys but I only ever use one. Its clearly a malfunction. As Im sure you know the wheel is supposed to go up when you turn the car off and back to its setting when you turn the car on to help you get in and out of the car. It used to do that every time but now not so much. I can still move the wheel around with the lever but Im annoyed that I have to bring the wheel down before I drive
Maybe the adjuster for that side or was installed incorrectly (not fully seated in the socket). Barring that perhaps you can simply disassemble the headlight assembly and move the nut on the stepper motor shaft enough to allow for more adjustment on the upper adjuster. The servo wont know the difference.
JimLev The manual adjusters in photo 2 were replaced with upgraded aluminium parts. Photos 3 and 4 are the items of interest. Im wondering if parts 6 7 and 13 on RealOEM can be adjusted to cause the stepper motors to seat where the motors project the beams higher. If so then I can simply use the manual adjustments on the headlight capsules to more properly align them. As it is right now the lights
Quote Originally Posted by UsedBits JimLev The manual adjusters in photo 2 were replaced with upgraded aluminium parts. Photos 3 and 4 are the items of interest. Im wondering if parts 6 7 and 13 on RealOEM can be adjusted to cause the stepper motors to seat where the motors project the beams higher. If so then I can simply use the manual adjustments on the headlight capsules to more properly align
Quote Originally Posted by UsedBits Thats the point of this thread. Do you know how If not can you point us to where we can learn how EDIT looks as though there have been some developments while I was composing my post. -) Good luck with your repairs. I have DIS (bmw software) on my computer & OEM Hella HID with the self leveling LWR. I had faults some time ago due to a damaged plug on one of the suspension
Quote Originally Posted by scalamia windshield wipers steering column adjustment and drivers seat controls ... Is there anything these things have in common Certainly the steering column motor and driver-seat motor are controlled commonly ... and often die together when the harness wire is broken off ... see this thread for details .. .
Yes Likely SW motor going bad. Here is a good thread httpforums.bimmerforums.comforum....phpt1143750 Pricing is here PN 67646903946. And you dont want to know the price of this stupid motor it is about 200 or so httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...02&hg32&fg30 Quote If not how do I fix this problem before it stops working altogether Read Post 23 I removed Fuse 13 in the glovebox and am very happy I did
Hydraulic That went out with the 55 Cadillac All are electric motors these days. THe connector for the seat controls sometimes works its way out. Check that behind the panel where the adjustment switches are.
Quote Originally Posted by djhabel I have a 1999 528i. The following problem occurs when I turn off the key A motor seems to run in an attempt to reset the seat and steering wheel positions. I can only solve the problem by pressing one of the preset buttons or the steering wheel adjustment lever. thats how it should work ignition off and steering wheel goes up to free up getting out of the car ignition on and steering wheel goes to its position back.
Quote Originally Posted by AzNMpower32 Quite a number of cars have electric drivers seats thesedays probably because um some Americans are rather lazy and cant be bothered to move their own seats forward and back. Would be pretty strange to have 20-way Comfort seats that were manual I guess all of us non-lazy Americans could always rip out the wiring and motors for the seats so we would feel more like someone who isnt lazy and apparently has the IQ of a house pet. Get a grip
The problem is that the cable housings are 38 longer than they should be. That allows the actual cable to disengage from the motor. Shortening the housing makes the cable engage the motor. Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
Is this it If so its listed as Actuator horizontal adjustment httpwww.pelicanparts.comcgi-bin...ment%2C%20325i dj
My original problem was not seat back twist but seat bottom tilt when using height adjust. In other words one side of the height adjust was working and one was not resulting in the seat leaning you towards the center console. All the general tips on seat cable repair apply but accessing the motorcable mounting screws on the sport seats appears to be more difficult than the comfort seats or other bmw
On A bmw 540i seat TWIST - Please Keep In Mind The seat Cable Spin Round As motor Turns Them Which Is Not To Fast That Why The Cable motor End Held In Place By Tin Flex Plate The Worm Type Gear Box With The .25 cent Odometer Gear That Sells For 41 Bucks Is where seat adjustment Drive Torque Starts..... -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
stretches or the inner cable shortens due to wind-up and it disengages either at the motor or at the worm drive for the seatback. It can be repaired with the seat either in or out of the car. Since it was my first attempt I took the seat out & worked on it upsidedown on a pad. Ill reference two urls from the bimmer.org archives for this with due credit to the original authors Bimmer.org 7 series
Quote Originally Posted by rjdriver Thank you guys. Per that X3 pic it appears that even the manual seats have have a power foreaft switch as well as a side bolster power adjuster. I will look at the bmw manual when I get to a real computer. Thinking about ditching the premium package on my touring since it has the leather as part of the ZVP. Just gonna add bluetooth for 750 and save 1150.00. I think
I think I found the problem... I had my wife drive and I was in the back seat. (thas the first time it was only just one of us back there heh heh heh... ) Under each of the front seats are 2 vents which are routed from (in this case) the heater blower directing air to the feet of the back passengers. Warm air comes out of those vents just fine and it correctly forces air along the outside edge of the
Quote Originally Posted by marlin1881 I think I found the problem... I had my wife drive and I was in the back seat. (thas the first time it was only just one of us back there heh heh heh... ) Under each of the front seats are 2 vents which are routed from (in this case) the heater blower directing air to the feet of the back passengers. Warm air comes out of those vents just fine and it correctly forces air along the outside edge of the car where it obviously should be most cold. BUT and heres the issue I believe there is a huge amount of cold-temperature-conductive-transfer (or something like that) through the underneath frame of the front seats that its like a little refrigerator under there. I think the bolts that hold the chairs solid to the body are transferring cold to the front seat frames and electric motors. The warm air from the vents is circulating along the outside floor well hitting the back of the floor well going to the inside of the floor well and then going forward under the front seat along the freezing cold metal framemotoretc. and pushing cold air going forward onto the back of the legs of whoever is sitting in the front seats. Its basically making an elongated circle from the vent back to the front of the car routed under the front seat. STRANGE... The problem is how to fix it. Ive thought of insulating the front seat frames but there might be some issue with the insulation getting into the seat adjustment track. So I think Im going to do one or both of the following 1) deflect some air from the under-seat vents towards the inner portion of the car which should break up that circle that collects cold and transfers it forward 2) make a little curtain on the lower-edge front-portion of the front seat which will stop any cold air transfer from coming forward. Ill let you all know what I come up with. Obviously the colder outside that it is the more cold that gets transferred into the frame of the front seats. Interesting. You must have some darn cold ambient conditions there If you opt for trying option 2. I probably would try installing OEM First Aid Kit boxes with a back drape to add a little additional storage (for maps tools flashlights or even First Aid Kit) in addition to acting as a curtain as the E46s tend to be so skimpy on storage areas. [BTW if you screw around under there make sure you do a search and disconnect power properly to avoid triggering an air bag warning from the seatbelt tensioner connections etc. can be irritating] see httpbmwfans.infopartscatalogE4...A0226%C2%A0450
This is a first...Ive never seen anyone have an issue with the thigh extension before. But can you fill in some details You wrote that the thigh extension just went out...so do we assume that it is totally unrelated to any other circumstance Like did anything roll under or get lodged under the seat recently or a few weeks ago and you just noticed it now when you went to adjust the seat Or perhaps your GFMomSister borrowed the car and perhaps they jammed their purse below the seat while also readjusting the seat When you press the button do you hear the motor Or is it completely silent along with no movement If you can hear the motor but theres no movement...then the problem may be the flexshaft cable. If there is no motor noise then the drive is dead (literally or now electrical power) or something is wrong with your switch. In the diagram below item 15 is the drive for the thigh extension (depth adjustment)...check the electrical harness or flexshaft cable (Im not sure if it has one though...but take a look see). httpwww.realoem.combmwshowparts...52&fg10&hl70
its separate motor (the one in the front) asides from all other buttons does it sound like i need a new motor if so how much would the part be thanks a lot kingdunke 1 still think its the cable u gotta take it out and try twisting the cable aorund see if the seat is moving 2 they all hav seperate motor.....but yea take out the seat play with the cable cuz i dont think its the motor at all....5series
Quote Originally Posted by kingdunke my passenger seat has 2 issues (luckily its the passenger seat... but still ) 1) seat twist but not completely stucked after adjusting my passenger seat all the way to the front and back the back adjustment starts twisting. the left side of the back always moves while the right side would get delayed for a sec or two then moves. also the right side cant go up after
like a heat shield harmonic vibration). This noise sounds like it is coming from under the selector I only hope it is not something terminal. I have read in several places that the pan bolts are soft and should be replaced when the pan is dropped should they be replaced with the same stock bolts or should I look for somthing stronger as a replacement I dont do a lot of posting because Im a new bmw
If youre getting some of the adjustment directions to work and you only have one that isnt its usually the motor thats the problem not the switch. This one you can test with the DMM without any issues. Youll want to raise the seat up as high as you can get it to go then youll be able to reach under the seat. If you use a mirror to help you see youll be able to see the forwardbackward motor and the
Quote Originally Posted by Zeek Hello Is the only way to get sport seats on an E90 by ordering the ZSP Sports Package It is not clear to me if Option 459 (Power Front seats with Driver Memory) automatically includes the upgrade to the sports seats or if it just motorizes the adjustments on the standard seats. Thanks. Sport non-power seats comes only with SP. Power seats or PP will motorize the stock seats or the sports seats.
Quote Originally Posted by filon102 seat not working check the connector to the seat adjustment unit when its unplugged the steering wheel motor wont work also. Search for seat plastic bracket replacement or what ever you call that plastic piece where the adjuster unit is at. btw welcome thank you for your reply i will try the connector because the steering wheel motor doesnot work like you mentioned
The cable sticks out of the housing just a bit. Instead of putting a bit in your drill you put that little cable nub in there and tighten the bit holder down in it. The drill spinning that cable in the housing is what engages the gears at the adjustment points. Cables attach at the motors on both ends of the motor driving the left and right of say the seat height. By pulling one cable and using a drill you can move just one side of the seat height to get it level with the other side.
The adjustment cable casing expands which pulls the end of the cable out of the motor. The fix is cut the casing remove about 14 inch of the casing then push the end of the cable back into the motor. The biggest part of the job is getting the seats out. Chisum
Quote Originally Posted by Albo both of my seats starting twisting recently as well....... Oh FUN Albo if you tackle this yourself Do yourself a huge favor and do all four cables at one time on each seat. Another suggestion I read about here was to see if you are able to run the seat all of the way up before starting to remove the seat. This makes it much easier to work on. My problem was the cable
I agree with the last post on removing the seat. This whole process IS time consuming. The seats arent featherweight but can behandled by one man. There are instructions on the internet about removing the seat and Id get a set of use the Bently manual if you have one. Keep your battery connected as its the key to making the adjustments of the seat bottom fore and aft and updown. Youll probably need